When someone’s casual interest in wine (I’ll have a glass of whatever…) starts to lead down the never-ending learning trail (OK I’m curious – what’s in this glass?), one of the early challenges is sorting out red wine styles and preferences. And the best way to do that is with single varietal red wines rather than blends. But looking at the obvious candidates, I see problems.
Pinot Noir? Too variable, often expensive, not a beginner’s wine.
Merlot? Most often best in blends; as a standalone it can be light, diffuse, even wimpy.
Cabernet Sauvignon? Yes, it’s the red grape standard; iconic, ageworthy and grown around the world. But entry-level? Too tight, too tannic, too compact to unpack without time and experience.
Syrah? Finally coming out of its ‘everybody hates me’ phase but still more exotic than a new-to-wine palate is likely to find charming.
Which brings me to Grenache. It’s accessible, fruit-driven, well-balanced and generally drinks well young. When grown properly and well made it can be both complex and user-friendly, and is a great transition wine from the big reds of winter into the lighter, more forward springtime wines. Some of the best Grenache in the country is coming from the Pacific Northwest.
Washington state vintners were late in discovering how to make great wines from grapes from Southern France. The obvious reasons – not hot enough to ripen properly, not winter hardy enough for Washington’s bitter freezes. Less obvious reason – wrong clones, unsuited to this climate. But winemakers are a can-do crew, and all the way back to the ‘70s and ‘80s there were experiments with Grenache and Syrah, with only spotty success.
Fifteen years ago, in the second edition of ‘Washington Wines & Wineries’ I wrote that “winemakers often have a mad scientist gene. They want to try something that they have never done before, and if no one else has done it, so much the better. It’s only in the past dozen years [since the turn of the new century] that high quality French clones of Grenache blanc, Grenache, Syrah, Counoise, Marsanne, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Roussanne and Picpoul have been available to growers anywhere in the country, thanks largely to the pioneering efforts of the Haas family at Tablas Creek. All of these varieties are now planted in Washington, and being tried both in blends and as stand-alone varietals.”
Few of those grapes had even been tried before, although the occasional suitcase clone slipped through. But Grenache had a different beginning here in the Northwest.
“Grenache was one of the first successful vinifera grapes to be planted in eastern Washington” I noted in that same chapter. “Wine historian Leon Adams reported in his seminal The Wines of America that on a trip to the Yakima Valley in 1966 ‘the only fine wine I tasted . . . was a Grenache Rosé made by a home winemaker in Seattle.’”
So someone was growing Grenache back in the mid-60’s. Yet despite its head start, Grenache for decades remained a bit player in the region’s viticulture, for it is not especially winter hardy. Doug McCrea was among the first to make a varietal Grenache sourced from vines planted above the Columbia Gorge in 1965. That ended when the vineyard was wiped out in the 1996 freeze.
It seemed for a while that it marked the end of the road for Grenache in Washington. But beginning about 25 years ago the grape began a remarkable comeback. Elerding vineyard was the first to replant Grenache in 1999. Other new plantings – from better clones than before – began going in at widely separate locations – Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills, Cayuse in the Rocks District and Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain. The quality improvement in the fruit was almost immediately seen.
“Sappy, grapey, bursting with fruit and nicely spiced, Grenache is more approachable and purely fruity than Syrah” I wrote back in 2010. “These young vines do not show the kind of concentrated power that you find in old-vine Grenache from Spain, France, and Australia. Those vines have six or eight extra decades under their belts. With just a fraction of that much time, this grape could become a real showstopper in Washington.”
So whether it’s better clones, better sites, better vineyard management or better winemaking – and most likely all of the above – Grenache has gone on to secure a place in select locations scattered throughout the Pacific Northwest as a successful and important second tier red grape, both as a pure varietal and in any number of GSM and other blends. In my recent posts (all searchable here) I’ve given high praise and high scores to the following wines along with a number of very fine GSMs.
- Upchurch 2022 LTL Grenache Rosé (92)
- Echolands 2023 Rocksy Music Grenache (92)
- Long Walk Vineyard 2022 Grenache (93)
- Gramercy 2021 The Third Man Grenache (93)
- Pášxa 2022 Rockgarden Vineyard Grenache (95)
- Pášxa 2022 River Rock Vineyard Grenache (97)
- Liminal 2022 High Canyon Series WeatherEye Vineyard Grenache (98)
These are very good, sometimes great wines. Nonetheless I would argue that no one individual has done more to develop a unique and impressive portfolio of Grenache over the past quarter century than vigneron Christophe Baron of Cayuse. At a private tasting with him, followed by extensive tastings at my home, I dove into his current Grenache releases, and we chatted about the challenges of making Grenache into a fine wine.
PG: What in your view are the main challenges to growing and producing high quality Grenache?
CB: “In the past it was made for bulk wine, blended low price wines. It’s definitely cold tender, so once in awhile you have to cut vines down to the ground and re-train. That’s why it did not thrive as well as Cabernet Sauvignon for example. Now you’re seeing producers focusing on low yield production. That is more important than the age of the vines.”
PG: So you believe it’s not vine age, but low yields that are critically important?
CB: “Take my 2005 God Only Knows [GOK} Grenache. The vines were just fifth leaf and the wines were spectacular. Why? We do 1.5 to 2 tons/acre – about half of what can be produced in Chateauneuf-du-Pape for example. For my Horsepower Grenache it’s only three or four clusters per vine. Vine spacing is 3.5 by 3.5 density, 3055 vines/acre. In all my vineyards we have moderate (6×4) or high density, no low density planting, and do three or four clusters per vine.”
PG: What to you differentiates each of your several Grenache bottlings?
CB: “GOK and No Girls are 6×4 plantings so you have more sun. Horsepower and En Chasselas are 3.5 x 3.5 so ripen a week later than the No Girls and GOK. Those are very refined, lighter color, closer to Pinot Noir. You get deeper colors in GOK and No Girls.”
PG: You told me you had the oldest Grenache vines in the Walla Walla Valley, now about 25 years old. What makes old vine Grenache different or better than Grenache from young vines?
CB: “I don’t call those old vines. A vigneron in France or Spain would laugh at me if I said so.”
PG: Then what is the potential lifespan of your Grenache vines?
CB: “We don’t know yet. A vigneron makes sure to grow at low yields. So in 50 years those vines should be there. The potential in Walla Walla is as high as Spain and France. We are a very young wine country producer.”
Thank you Christophe. Here are my notes on the new Grenache wines. My extensive reviews of all the rest of the Cayuse, No Girls, Horsepower and Hors Categorie wines will be posted later this month, ahead of the ‘official’ release the first weekend of April.
Cayuse 2023 Edith Grenache Rosé – This bone dry wine, given an extra year in bottle, is textured and loaded with mineral flavors. Fermented half in concrete egg, half in stainless, it’s a coppery orange hue and shows flavors of fruit skins more than flesh. – grapefruit, lemon, even peach! Think stone fruits on a gravel road. Released a year late (as is done in France). 163 cases; 12.5%; $53 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100
No Girls 2022 La Paciencia Vineyard Grenache – This is a preview tasting and clearly needs more bottle age. Not due for release for another year, this is still tight, compact, with jangly flavors of cranberry and cherry, earthy and hard, with some green savory notes. Fine grained tannins, fruit and earth in equal balance. 333 cases; 13.5%; $TBD (Walla Walla Valley) 93-95/100
Cayuse 2022 God Only Knows Armada Vineyard Grenache – Planted in 2001, this is from the oldest existing block of Grenache in the Walla Walla valley. As it begins to enter its more mature phase it shows more finesse and detailed accents of coffee grounds, chocolate shavings, black tea and tobacco. Loaded with cranberry, black cherry and concentrated flavors of organic earth, it adds darker accents through a long finish with a coffee kick. 554 cases; 14.1%; $109 (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100
Horsepower 2022 Fiddleneck Vineyard Grenache – Plowed with Belgian and Percheron draft horses (hence the label), this new vineyard, planted in 2015, is just coming into its own. The wine is compact, peppery, tannic, dark and earthy, from soils with clay in them. It’s got a pasty texture, not unpleasant, touches of barnyard, light compost, cherry fruit. It tails off in a gentle fade. 277 cases; 13.5%; $134 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100
Horsepower 2022 Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache – Complete, intense, finished with silky tannins and layered in an elegant, subtle way. Scents of peonies, tamarind, shiitake; flavors of black fruits, black tea and highlights of lemon rind. There’s a smooth ramp down thru a long finish with a lick of cinnamon. 298 cases; 14.1%; $134 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100
La Rata 2022 Red – This will be the last vintage for this wine, and it’s a gem. Mostly (56%) Grenache, with 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah. Big bold cherry fruit jumps out, cloaked in Rocks District accents of black tea, cured meats, iron filings, graphite and truffles… wow! Full bodied with superior mid-palate concentration, this Aussie-style blend rocks out from start to finish. Due for September ’25 release. 147 cases; 14.1%; $80 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100
Top Source is the project of Meredith Hyslop, a Walla Wallan whose company Sapere Originis (latin for “know the source”) specializes in importing a varied portfolio of European (mostly French) wines. I had a chance to taste three of the Top Source wines and found them all to be exceptional – well made, high value wines. In an email interview she provided this overview of the brand.
“I call my wines Top Source (inspired from Top Chef or Top Shelf…) to highlight my mission to produce some of Washington state’s most compelling, quality, expressive terroir-driven wines that are farmed using sustainable and organic farming practices. I’m passionate about the source, which for me is the place, the people farming and winemaking practices that all contribute to crafting top level wine quality. I love talking with people about how important it is to understand the source of the things we consume, and I personally am working with grape growers who are doing organic and sustainable farming practices to show that healthier grapes translate into better wines and a better planet too!”
Top Source wines are not easily found and not sold on the website. Meredith suggests that the best way to obtain these wines is to “support your favorite independent wine retailer and ask them to order in my wines. We mostly work with small, independent wine retailers in various states. It’s a work in progress as we develop distribution channels.”
Top Source 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – Lush aromatics, just the right side of savory, with top notes of white flower, melon and grapefruit. A touch of mineral comes up as it rolls down the palate. Tasted slightly warm after being open a few hours additional notes of straw and hints of toast appear. The balancing acids keep it fresh and the pungency perfectly sets up the fruit. 231 cases; 12.9%; $30 (Columbia Valley) 93/100
Top Source 2022 Syrah/Grenache – Sourced from a trio of vineyards from the Yakima, Columbia Valley and Walla Walla AVAs, this is 40% Syrah and 60% Grenache. It shows plenty of the earthy funk of the Rocks District in the nose, along with a mix of garrigue, soy and earthy tannins. Forest floor, mushroom, espresso and more – if you know the Cayuse Grenache wines you might think of this as their younger sister. It focuses itself in a grippy, potent, lingering finish with a bitter edge. 945 cases; 13.8; $30 (Columbia Valley) 92/100
Top Source 2022 Syrah – This has all the hallmarks of Rocks District Syrah – the earthy funk, the salinity, the soy, the purple fruits. Given time in 10% new oak, the barrels put a frame around the flavors and begin to soften the edges. Somewhat rustic (in a charming way) this delivers firm flavors of compost, earth and saline-soaked black cherry fruit. 218 cases; 13.8%; $50 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100
More highlights from recent tastings.
Barking Dog
Barking Dog 2023 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir Blanc – This wine spent about 9 months in one quarter new barrels, adding depth, texture and richness. This reaches beyond most white wines made from this red grape, which are often like tart rosés. This coats the palate with lightly honeyed flavors of apple and peach cobbler. Though finished dry, its powerful fruit gives it a certain succulence that rounds out the finish. I suggest giving it a good chill and serving it with a big fruit bowl. 151 cases; 14%; $32 (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100
Barking Dog 2023 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir – From the high elevation (up to 1100 feet) estate vineyard, this young wine already shows layers of mixed red fruits dotted with dried herbs. Moderate acids underscore the fruit, and aging in one quarter new French oak barrels remains unobtrusive, but may have helped to smooth out the finish. 1000 cases; 14%; $36 (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100
Barking Dog 2023 Du Coeur Pinot Noir – The name translates as ‘from the heart’ and has been given to this reserve-level effort from estate-grown fruit. It’s been awarded a little extra time in a little extra new oak, and will need more bottle age to pull the barrel and fruit flavors into harmony. But planted in 2016 this vineyard is already showing great potential, and will be fun to track over the coming years. 63 cases; 14%; $xx (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100
J.C. Somers
J.C. Somers 2023 Croft Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc – A highly regarded vineyard for Sauv Blanc, which remains (sadly) a bit of an afterthought in Oregon, Croft fruit has enjoyed a quarter century history with Jay Somers. This vintage is a blend of two ferments – one in the Nomblot concrete egg (35%) and one in stainless steel (65%). There was no malolactic fermentation, keeping the savory side of the grape up front, with citrus and melon fruit playing a backup but important role. Firm through the core and clean through the finish, this should please those who prefer a Loire-style take on Sauvignon Blanc. 200 cases; 13.5%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
J.C. Somers 2022 La Revanche Chardonnay – Consistent with the previous vintage, this single (Anahata) vineyard wine was fermented and aged in 500 liter barrels and not put through secondary (malolactic) fermentation. The result is a clean, fresh, crisply defined Chardonnay, with subtle highlights of lime and pineapple. Moderate length and superb balance throughout. 150 cases; 13%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
J.C. Somers 2022 Nouvelle Lune Pinot Noir – In ’22 this is all declassified Abbey Ridge fruit, which is not to say it’s lacking in flavor or interest. In fact it’s a fine companion to the other Abbey Ridge wines, with generous black fruits, berry and cherry, and time spent in barrel that adds a touch of sandalwood. The finish trails out gracefully, with textured tannins and a dash of pepper. 150 cases; 13%; $35 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
J.C. Somers 2022 Abbey Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir – The depth and detail of this wine impress, the aromatics beguile, and the overall elegance and precision elevate the total experience even at such a young age. Snappy citrus underscores the tart red fruits, while a mix of barrel spice and toast along with touches of earth and fungus add complexity to the long and satisfying finish. The best drinking years are five to 10 years away, but that doesn’t mean it’s not an absolute delight already. c100 cases; 13%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
J.C. Somers 2022 Abbey Ridge Vineyard Aja Pinot Noir – This two barrel reserve has grip and power, texture and weight. It’s nicely differentiated from the other ’22 Abbey Ridge bottling, and the two make a fine pair. Here the red fruits drift into black fruit territory, the terroir brings hints of iron filings and graphite into play. It’s a big, robust, open and delicious wine with a blast of rich, ripe fruit and a long trail highlighted with mineral, earth and barrel toast. 48 cases; 13%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
J.C. Somers 2022 Cuvée Luna Pinot Noir – This cuvée comprises three barrels from co-fermented Abbey Ridge and La Colina vineyard Pommard clone grapes. It’s light and balanced, with pretty cherry fruit aromatics and flavors at the core. A young, seemingly delicate wine, it has the palate presence of an above average village Burgundy. Which is to say elegant, aromatic and complete, with the added attributes of fresh New World fruit, keeping the herbal flavors in check. 73 cases; 13%; $28 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
J.C. Somers 2022 La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir – This is all Pommard clone, racy and focused, with a solid core of blackberry and black cherry fruit. It’s big and concentrated, supported with tangy acids, a generous wine with immediate appeal. The finish adds a mix of sweet citrus and underlying minerality. This is a drink now wine, and delivers great flavors at a good price. 100 cases; 13%; $40 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
