Writers fall into habits, and the more you write the more you need to be aware of your own predilections. I’ve been writing professionally (getting paid for it) for a half century as of this year. Throughout most of that time my work has passed through the hands of numerous clients and editors, meaning other eyes (some better than others) were looking at the work and evaluating it according to their various needs. But here I am judge and jury (as well as the accused from time to time), so it’s more important than ever to step back and carefully assess the words I choose.
Wine writing, in particular, is a minefield of vague and poorly defined terms. Meander past the usual rundown of fruits and vegetables, obscure soil types and names of barrel makers, and you’re still not out of the woods. Such common terms as ‘reserve’ and ‘barrel select’ and ‘old vine’ are unregulated. Sometimes a winery or winemaker will provide a personal definition; more often readers are left to interpret the meaning and value of such descriptions on their own. That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t strive to refine the language of wine writing and make it more effective at capturing the myriad nuances of wine. So let’s dive in.
A term I use – and find particularly apt for a few select and remarkable wines – is elegance. But what is elegance in a wine? Can it be meaningfully defined?
Good old Google offers these examples of elegance and elegantly used in non-wine contexts:
“I was impressed by the elegance and grace of the dancer’s movements”
“Simplicity and elegance should be your main guidelines when choosing a ring.”
“He wore a plain but elegantly tailored suit.”
“Tendrils of clouds glide elegantly across the sky.”
“He has elegantly solved the problem.”
“He elegantly articulates and defends the artist’s strategy.”
In each of these examples the meaning is clear: elegance conveys a particular style, whether applied to a product, solution, strategy, or movement. So why shouldn’t wine – at its best a stylish and fashionable product – also embody these qualities?
Who better to answer such questions that a winemaker whose wines, to me, epitomize elegance; better yet a winemaker born, raised and educated in Burgundy! Guillaume Large joined the Résonance team in 2016, moving to Oregon from a position with Maison Louis Jadot. He succeeded Jacques Lardière, who retired in 2012 after heading up the winemaking and vineyard management at Jadot for 42 vintages, and was tapped to launch the Oregon project the following year.
In 2017 the baton was passed to Large, who told me at the time that it was “the beginning of a great adventure – move to Oregon, use my knowledge and experiences to reveal the best of a vineyard block’s terroir with minimal intervention. At Résonance vineyard we have the chance to have top quality, ungrafted Pinot Noir growing on an old sedimentary soil. I am amazed by the purity of this Pinot [compared to Burgundy], where all Pinots are grafted.”
Eight years later those goals have been met, the project has continued to grow in both size and stature, and tasting through the most recent releases (some due out this spring) the overarching sense of elegance sparked this email conversation with Guillaume Large.
PG: Let’s start with a quick update on the four estate vineyards.
GL: “Today Résonance owns 140 planted acres, all dry-farmed and certified organic. With one main goal, revealing the expression of each place, each terroir. When we started Résonance in 2013, the goal of Jacques Lardière was to find a place with a sense, unique by the location, the exposure, the elevation, the work made by the farmer who did the plantation, and of course the energy of the location. He found it, with Thibault Gagey of Maison Louis Jadot, and it was the Résonance vineyard in Carlton: 20 acres of Pinot Noir planted from 1981.”
PG: What makes it so special?
GL: “The marine sediments are among the oldest of this part of the Willamette Valley, releasing a unique minerality to the fruits and the wines. We used the same approach when Découverte vineyard in the Dundee Hills AVA was bought in 2014. It’s a small natural amphitheater (15 acres), with a beautiful selection of vines planted from 1996 on red Jory soil. Another unique terroir.”
PG: What came next?
GL: “In 2017, when I arrived, from Burgundy and Maison Jadot, we started the development of Jolis Monts vineyard, adjacent to Résonance in Carlton. [Named for its] beautiful hills (joli means pretty), with the feeling that these hills would be great for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Today, 48 acres of Pinot Noir and 12 acres of Chardonnay have been planted, with massale [mixed clone] selections for both varieties, thinking about the diversity, and again the link with the place. Here the slopes are steep, well-exposed, with thin but rocky soils. A good sign for the mineral expression, thinking about deep roots!
“We wanted to find a site in Eola Amity Hills, in addition to Yamhill Carlton and Dundee Hills, and this is why, three years ago, we bought Koosah Vineyard. High elevation (700 to 1200 feet), with volcanic soil, cool location under the influence of the wind (Van Duzer corridor). A great site for Pinot Noir (18 acres) and Chardonnay especially (26 acres). Freshness, purity and tension are what we expect from this terroir and all our vineyards in general. A total of 44 planted acres, with 17 acres being own-rooted. It is exciting, isn’t it?”
PG: Love the consistent, thoughtful growth. Where do you go from here?
GL: “With our estate and the current planted acres, we have reached a goal of production. And we have still plantable acres on the property if we want to grow. However, as we are still learning about the Willamette Valley and its geological mosaic, if an opportunity comes, with a beautiful terroir, small but qualitative, in another AVA that we don’t know yet, we would consider it. But it is clearly not a priority.”
PG: If there is one word that for me captures the essence of your wines it’s elegance. Your wines are elegant in the best sense. What does that term mean to you? Is there an equivalent concept in France?
GL: We use the same word in French, élégance. For me, Pinot Noir means elegance. A concept of harmony, a balance between power and subtlety, between tension and grace, between structure and delicateness. Actually, the wine is elegant if alive. And this life starts in the vineyard. Having all our vineyard organically farmed (all certified), and dry farmed, with our soils being tilled, will allow us to grow fruits expressing truly each terroir.”
PG: What specifically do you do in the winery to produce wines that are so wonderfully complex and powerful, yet retain that elegance?
GL: “There is one strategic time for the winemaker – the harvest – picking at an optimal ripeness stage. And the winemaking process, very similar to what we do at Maison Louis Jadot in Burgundy, having a slow yet progressive maceration, fermenting with the native yeast to boost the expression of the place, and then a long aging in French oak barrels. Et voilà, the wines come slowly, month after month, in an elegant way.”
“In this way, I think we can say that the concept of elegance relates to Pinot Noir and is true in Willamette Valley as well as in Burgundy. Interesting to note that it is true as well for Chardonnay, so vibrant and complex in the Willamette Valley. I believe that the Chardonnay has found a wonderful region to grow, and with vineyards being now well established and in full production, the vintages to come should be bright and golden, like Chardonnay is!”
PG: Thank you Guillaume Large for taking the time to offer such thoughtful answers. It’s a pleasure to feature you and your wines on my Substack. And now, on to the reviews. Quick note: some of these reviews were published behind a paywall last May. I’m republishing them (unchanged) along with new reviews from the latest releases.
Résonance
Résonance 2022 Les Coteaux Chardonnay – As with the Les Coteaux Pinot Noir, this was sourced from the hillsides of two estate vineyards – in this case Découverte and Joli Monts. It’s full-bodied and rich, with concentrated citrus flesh and citrus oil, apple and Asian pear, along with a clear impression of gooseberry. Startlingly vivid on entry, it softens up through the finish with a buttery mouthfeel suggesting that a significant percentage went through malolactic fermentation. Long, luscious, spicy and generous, this is terrific Chardonnay. 206 cases; 13.5%; $48 (Willamette Valley) 96/100
Résonance 2022 Koosah Vineyard Chardonnay – This distinctive, high elevation vineyard anchors its flavors in palate piercing minerality, here with a hint of sea breeze and oyster shell. Tight, crisp and focused, it’s big enough for richer seafoods and precise enough for fresh oysters. It is truly Chablis-like, with that sort of minerality, a touch of chalk, green apple and wintergreen. The finish lingers dramatically and the wine is every bit as good on the second day. 294 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100
Résonance 2022 Découverte Vineyard Chardonnay – Aromatic, compact and powerful, this could be defined as classic. The balance of acid and fruit kickstarts the flavors, and 14 months in 30% new oak (plus another portion in a concrete egg) builds the texture and lengthens the finish. It’s young, sharp and spicy, with densely layered citrus and orchard fruits, enlivened by the succulent acids. All of the estate grown Résonance wines are rock stars, defining the vineyards, clearly reflecting the AVAs, and demonstrating here that world class Chardonnays have arrived in Oregon. 588 cases; 13.5%; $70 (Dundee Hills) 95/100
Résonance 2021 Founder’s Blocks Estate Pinot Noir – Jadot re-assembled a pair of once-adjoining vineyards that had been separated – the original Résonance and the newly-named Jolis Monts. This is a special selection combining the best blocks from both, which share similar terroir and some of the oldest soils in the region, predominantly fractured basalt. A riveting nose opens the pathway toward a mid-palate loaded with cranberry, raspberry, spice and savory herbs. Tannins are balanced and add notes of green tea and tobacco. 608 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100
Résonance 2022 Pinot Noir – This is a well-crafted young wine, aromatic and softly fruity, while showing some earthy beet root flavors; not yet settled into a seamless whole. The overall balance is good, the tannins firm and the fruit flavors brambly and lightly peppery. Aged 15 months in 30% new barrels, this young wine will benefit from another couple of years of bottle age before you pop the cork. 13.5%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 93/100
Résonance 2022 Découverte Vineyard Pinot Noir – Wines from Découverte continue to improve with every new vintage. The early releases struck me as a bit thin, but it has blossomed into a classic Dundee Hills site. Big red fruits with Jory soil hints of sandalwood gather focus and power through the palate. The details pile on through the finish, with pretty cherry fruit accented with touches of tobacco and anise. 1015 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Résonance 2022 Les Coteaux Pinot Noir – Sourced from the hillsides of the Découverte and Résonance estate vineyards, this A+ material delivers the goods. Start with the plush and lovely aromatics, a sensuous dive into the complexities of this magical grape. The scents flow seamlessly into flavors of crushed raspberries, white chocolate, blood orange and Meyer lemon. The fresh and pure acids linger through a long finish, with subtle highlights of savory green herbs and hints of salinity. All in balance and perfect proportion. 259 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Résonance 2022 Koosah Vineyard Pinot Noir – Koosah is a high elevation site on steep, rocky slopes. The basalt rock minerality is a strong presence, underscoring wild berry fruit and paralleling flavors from Robert Brittan’s McMinnville AVA wines. There’s maybe a touch more cherry fruit in this wine, but that compelling minerality resonates through a long and textured finish. 404 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100
Résonance 2022 Résonance Vineyard Pinot Noir – The vineyard is now 40 years old, though it’s unclear how many original vines remain. This shows the depth and character of old vines – a tangle of berries, bramble, brush and barrel. It’s compact and dense with blackberry, licorice and cedar flavors, spreading out into a long and graceful finish. If ever a wine was built to age, this is the wine, and yet it delivers immediate pleasure. 1369 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Yamhill-Carlton) 96/100
If you are wine touring in the northern Willamette valley and want a unique perspective on the history of Oregon wines in the modern era, David Hill should be high on your must-visit list. It’s in the foothills of the Coast Range, a bit out of the way, but worth every extra mile to get there. Unique wines from vineyards planted by the legendary Charles Coury make this a special place, with some special offerings not found anywhere else in Oregon.
David Hill
David Hill 2023 Chasselas Doré ‘Row 4’ – From grapes planted in the 1960s by original owner Charles Coury, winemaker Chad Stock has crafted this crisp, dense and appealing white wine. Quince, apple, jicama and lime zest combine with lightly savory herbs to build a firm, deep and lingering palate. Lovely texture and subtle minerality reflect the grape’s mountain Swiss origins. 24 cases; 12.4%; $28 (Tualatin Hills) 93/100
David Hill 2023 Block 22 Pinot Blanc – The chestnut barrels used to age this wine were often used in Europe in the 1800s, prior to a blight that decimated the trees worldwide. They give this a subtle hint of dill, much like American oak without the vanilla. It provides an interesting accent to build upon the core flavors of ripe apples and Bosch pears. It feels a little off in the tailing finish. 73 cases; 11.3% $32 (Tualatin Hills) 88/100
David Hill 2023 Wirtz Vineyard Pinot Gris – A mix of green fruits play on the nose, leading into a nicely-textured wine with a mix of tree fruits, saltine cracker and lemon curd. The Wirtz vineyard origins go back a half century, and these vines are reputedly from original Eyrie cuttings. This captures a bit of that old vine elegance and detail. 250 cases; 13.3% $35 (Tualatin Hills) 91/100
David Hill 2022 Wirtz Vineyard Chardonnay – Reading the back label you find that these Draper clone vines are self-rooted and dry-farmed, all signs pointing to a classy, classic style. The winery notes it was aged in ‘Chablis barrels’ – 40% new, though what exactly that means is unclear. In any event it’s a precise, focused, firm, almost steely wine, tight but long. Highlights of mint, clove and star anise add to the complexity, while the 40% new barrel impact is muted. 100 cases; 12.7%; $55 (Tualatin Hills) 92/100
David Hill 2023 Rosé of Gewurztraminer – Lush, perfumed aromas greet you and instantly confirm the grape. How do you get a rosé from this variety? Winemaker Chad Stock writes that “using a hard press technique, textural components on the palate and beautiful color from the skins were extracted”. Those skin tannins do give it a rose gold hue, and also firm up the finish, putting a hard shell around the flavors as they linger with notes of spice, linalool and ginger. 91 cases; 13%; $32 (Tualatin Hills) 92/100
David Hill 2022 Old Vine Pinot Noir – The owners of David Hill (and hats off to vineyard manager Mike Kuenz) have meticulously renovated old vines dating back to the earliest modern era Oregon vinifera plantings. Some of those vines make up this blend, a mix of Wadenswil, Pommard and Coury clones. It’s light (look at the alcohol) but deep, tart and aromatic with tangy blood orange, raspberry, boysenberry fruits accented with pine needles. The finish is where the old vine magic kicks in, so don’t quit on the wine and it won’t quit on you. 305 cases; 12.8%; $55 (Tualatin Hills) 93/100
