Twenty years ago my wife and I made a small investment in a big change. Almost on a whim we purchased a rundown cottage in a wheat farming town on the edge of the Palouse. We were lifelong urban dwellers, with no intention of leaving the bright lights of the big city. Rather, we thought of the cottage as a funky campsite, and went ahead with plans to sell our long time West Seattle home and move into a brand new two-bedroom condo on the 31st floor of a downtown building.
Gram Parson’s song ‘Sin City’ was ear-worming its way through my mind’s soundtrack: “On the 31st floor, a gold-plated door, won’t keep out the Lord’s burning rain…” I should have paid closer attention.
A series of setbacks KO’ed the condo purchase, and by the time our city house sold five years later (it was a tough housing market during those years) we’d fallen in love with the little town of 1200 we’d been commuting to. Along with the permanent change in residence came a slew of other changes, large and small. And yet at no time did either one of us have even a twinge of regret or even a passing feeling of loss.
People who live in cities, and stay there even after they retire, or the kids are grown, or the city itself becomes less and less friendly and affordable, often point to the amenities as the main reason they resist a move. The restaurants, the theaters, the live music, the art museums and galleries – the constant buzz of activity. And yes, it’s addictive. And no, you won’t find much of that in a town of 1200 in wheat country.
What you do find, without the slightest effort, is extra time. I don’t care if you’re just starting out, starting a family, starting a business, or at the far end of all that and just enjoying life. You will find there is time to garden, to watch the birds, to chat with neighbors, to walk a few blocks to the coffee shop downtown. Time to sit quietly and notice the changing seasons. Time to, well, do nothing at all. Which may be the rarest pleasure of all. For me, that’s real wealth.
Putting it simply, I have far more time to taste wine. Not more wines, but more time tasting each wine. In the city there were near daily trade tastings to attend, frequent visits from winemakers hosting lunches or dinners, and multiple deadlines piling up one on top of another without pause. Yes I tasted a lot of wine – many thousands of wines every year – but almost never did I have the chance to do a deep dive, to explore the history of the winery or vineyard, to re-visit the wine over a period of days. There was never enough time for any of that. Too much to do, and never enough time to do it all.
A defining insight came during a seminar some years ago hosted in Napa by famed sommelier Kevin Zraly. Speaking to a lecture hall full of both working and would-be wine writers, he led us through a tasting of some older Cabernets and instructed us to spend one full minute on one taste of each wine. He even divided the minute into quarters, so for the first 15 seconds all you could do is sniff the wine; the second quarter minute you’d take a mouthful, draw oxygen through it, and spit it out. Then in the third quarter minute you’d swallow and line up impressions of fruit, acid, sugar, tannin and so forth. And for the last 15 seconds, after swallowing the wine, you’d resist the impulse to have a second sip and just let the first one trail out. All of this without any distractions – no conversation other than inside your own head.
One minute sliced into 15 second bits doesn’t seem like much time, does it? Just give it a try. It’s amazing how long a minute actually is, and how rare any of us spends that much time completely focused on just one taste of a single wine.
Zraly’s seminar, along with my new lifestyle, completely changed my tasting protocol. And I believe it resonated so powerfully because I had already adjusted to the slower pace of a small town.
A footnote: anyone with an interest in wine has surely noticed the assault on alcohol consumption – any and all alcohol consumption – in the mainstream media. I was around during the neo-Prohibitionist movement in the late 1980s, which was more or less knocked off its high horse by the airing of “The French Paradox” story on 60 Minutes. But what’s happening today is far worse. The same mindset that pushes political agendas that aim to take away individual rights and freedoms from those who hold different viewpoints is powering this barrage of manipulated studies and conveniently ignorant rants about the evils of alcohol.
I will just say this. If you enjoy wine; if you know yourself well enough to be sure you are not an alcoholic; if wine brings you personal pleasure without detriment; if you believe in supporting small businesses that have a strong pro-environment bias; if you value the history, culture and sociability of wine drinking… please don’t let all the fear-mongers persuade you to abandon those pleasures. A glass of wine daily is not equivalent to a pack of cigarettes daily. You may recall that not that long ago your morning coffee was tagged with the same cancer-causing accusations. Now it turns out that up to three cups in the morning is actually good for you. Or so says the latest science.
If you think you need to cut down on your drinking, go ahead. My best advice – learn to spit. Anyone who earns a living making, marketing, selling or writing about wine spits. It’s how I can taste thousands of wines annually as I have for almost 40 years. My liver, to quote Wordsworth, is a happy liver. These days I taste fewer wines, spit almost everything, and yet enjoy the wines as much as ever. Give it a try. You’ll find you really don’t miss out on any of the enjoyment when you spit. You get 100% of the aroma (which itself is two thirds of the pleasure) and I’d guess 95% of the flavor. All you give up is the alcohol and extra calories from swallowing.
If you’re looking for a remarkably deep dive into fact-checking the anti-alcohol data, check out this post from Dr. Vinay Prasad:
Now on to new reviews…
Argyle
Argyle 2013 Extended Tirage Brut – That is the correct vintage – this series gets a minimum of a full decade of aging on the gross lees prior to disgorgement. This 2013 is the current release. The aromas captivate with bruised apples, nutmeg and cinnamon toast. The wine is rich, fruity and full-bodied, with excellent density and penetration. In prime drinking condition upon release, it has plenty of life ahead. The finish is luxurious and long, with dappled spices and crisp clean flavors of citrus, apple and green melon. 900 cases; 12.5%; $85 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Argyle 2022 SpiritHouse Chardonnay – This comes from 30+ year old vines at the Knudsen vineyard. It’s a full-flavored, captivating wine, sassy and tart with lots of citrus bleeding into pineapple and green apple fruit flavors. There are hints of mint and chamomile, nutmeg and popcorn, but the fruit and acids take center stage. One third of the barrels were new. 250 cases; 13%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Argyle 2022 NutHouse Pinot Noir – There’s some confusion for an old English major such as me; is it Nuthouse or NutHouse, Spirithouse or SpiritHouse. NUTHOUSE or SPIRITHOUSE? I’ve seen them all on the websites, back labels and tech sheets for this iconic Oregon producer. But however you spell it, this is a fresh and clean representation of the grape, sourced from a pair of estate vineyards. In some ways it’s a reference style for Pinot from this AVA. It doesn’t reach past being agreeably full, balanced and clean, with berry and cherry fruit. There may be a touch of residual sugar as well. Aged in one quarter new oak there is no significant flavor from the barrels. 725 cases; 13.8%; $65 (Eola-Amity Hills) 90/100
Lange Estate
Over the Christmas holidays I enjoyed a Zoom chat with Jesse Lange and a chance to explore eight current releases. Hard to believe that Lange Estate is coming up on its 40th anniversary. Wow! Their Classique series is especially noteworthy for value and quality.
Lange 2023 Classique Pinot Gris – Lange was very early (4th in the country) to jump on the Pinot Gris bandwagon, and has access to some old vines to make this excellent example. Love the texture, the light touches of spice and pear skin, the core of tangy apple and citrus, the overall electric vitality shown here. It’s one of those most refreshing white wines that literally will have you smacking your lips in anticipation of the next sip. Pinot Gris this good can be cellared for up to a decade, but then again, why not grab hold of it while it is at its freshest? 6000 cases; 13.3%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 93/100
Lange 2023 Classique Chardonnay – Widely available and value priced, this was principally fermented in French oak puncheons, but don’t look for much in the way of toasty flavors. It’s solidly anchored in pear and apple fruit, accented with lemon rind and a hint of bitter herbs. Fresh, compact and balanced, it’s a versatile wine that won’t hog the spotlight when paired with poultry or pasta. 2200 cases; 13.3%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Lange 2023 Classique Pinot Noir – Firm, taut even, with compact cranberry and raspberry fruit at the core and running vertically through the finish. This well made young wine, closed with a screwcap, could age surprisingly well given it’s heavier tannins and savory highlights. Some 80% of the grapes were estate-grown; the rest include grapes from Freedom Hill, Lucky River and others. 7700 cases; 13.6%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Lange 2022 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir – This cuvée, made annually since 1997, features an overlay of AVAs from varied vineyard sources. It’s fresh and lively, showing juicy flavors of red berries, red currants and blood orange. A bit more fruit forward than usual in this late vintage, it’s clean, crisp, tart and balanced. It remains restrained in the finish, with good texture and savory end notes. 425 cases; 13.5%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Lange 2022 Yamhill-Carlton Assemblage Pinot Noir – Noted for dark fruits and earthy tannins, this AVA shines through clearly in this blend of fruit from several sites. Dark, dense and showing a strong mineral accent, this matches its black fruits with drying tannins and layers of graphite, dried tea and charred wood. 200 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Lange 2022 Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir – This blend of fruit from the various estate vineyards, some first planted in 1988, captures all of the qualities for which this storied AVA is noted. It’s packed with blue and black fruits, brambly, textured and anchored in firm, ripe and polished tannins, finished with highlights of spicy chai tea and hints of underbrush and sandalwood. This wine is a barrel selection – 20 chosen out of 200 produced. 450 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Lange 2022 Lucky River Vineyard Pinot Noir – Here is the first single bottling from this vineyard, formerly Elkhorn Ridge, situated just four miles south of Freedom Hill. It was purchased by the Lange family in 2022, who were specifically interested in its old vines that were first planted in 2000. This is an aromatic, sexy wine, floral and spicy with cinnamon accents around brambly berry fruit. It’s elegant from start to finish, beautifully balanced and overall a fine expression of this elusive grape. 275 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Willamette Valley) 93/100
Lange 2022 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – Lovely aromas bring scents of soil, incense and pollen, leading into a rich, well-defined and fruit-driven palate. The flavors ramble broadly through citrus, blueberry, blackberry, cherry and baking spices, cascading along down a winding trail that lingers gracefully with finishing highlights of licorice, cinnamon, coffee and black tea .It’s a compelling wine from a great vineyard. 425 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Mt. Pisgah Polk County) 94/100
Phelps Creek
Phelps Creek 2022 Chardonnay – Chardonnay is a proven winner from Phelps Creek, aromatically compelling even when chilled. Full-bodied, buttery, balanced and mouth-coating, this is a wine to drink soon and often. The satiny mouthfeel features butterscotch streak through ripe pear and apple fruit, heading into a bright, toasty finish with a lingering, buttery pie crust finale. 405 cases; 13.7%; $38 (Columbia Gorge) 94/100
Phelps Creek 2021 Lynette Chardonnay – There’s a creamy texture and a mix of apple and pear fruit, with buttery brioche highlights. The overall structure suggests that this should be at its best in the 5 to 10 year window, as some of the stiffness in the compact finish resolves. 255 cases; 14.2%; $49 (Columbia Gorge) 92/100
Phelps Creek 2022 Dijon Clone 115 Pinot Noir – This is layered with sour cherries, green herbs and tart lemony acids. That said, it’s a long way from being melded together. Some well-defined components are in place, but how they come together is still up in the air. The barrel aging brings dried tea leaf and tobacco highlights through the finish. Re-tasted after 24 hours not much had changed. 98 cases; 13.9%; $49 (Columbia Gorge) 90-91/100
Phelps Creek 2021 Beehive Pinot Noir – This is all Dijon 777 clone, originally planted by winery owner (now retired) 777 pilot Robert Morus as a nod to the planes he flew internationally for more than a decade. This is a lovely wine, supple and with the feeling of fine leather. Flavors of dried cherries, sandalwood and cocoa powder highlight a smooth entry into a lively palate buttressed with blood orange notes. Listed as 14.2% abv, it drinks a bit lighter, with an elegant, savory finish. 93 cases; 14.2%; $54 (Columbia Gorge) 92/100
Phelps Creek 2021 Regina Pommard Clone Selection Pinot Noir – This block dates from 1990, yielding a wine with old vine gravitas. It starts with the aromatics, a lush and lively mix of strawberry jam and dried herbs, with a touch of funky mushrooms. It’s initially soft and open in the mouth, but heads into a phenolic wall of compact tannins. The finish brings highlights of cut tobacco, with the textural complexity of the 30-year-old vines. I’d give this a 10-year drinking window, with improvement likely throughout. 97 cases; 13.8%; $52 (Columbia Gorge) 92/100
I want to conclude with some newly-published data from Wine Business Analytics:
“According to wine marketing experts, micro-influencers are a valuable, untapped resource. Even an influencer with just a few thousand followers can help a winery build a brand while fostering a community generating personal recommendations leading to direct-to-consumer sales. Community, relationships and authenticity should be the focus rather than going viral. In a survey by IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, 40% of U.S. wine consumers said they trusted social media for wine information and recommendations. Among Millennials, 44% said they trusted social media as a resource for wine and 52% of Gen Z said they were influenced by social media when it came to wine purchasing.”
That’s a pretty good synopsis of this Substack, its purpose and focus. Community, relationships and authenticity, coupled with my decades-long experience covering the wines and wineries of the Pacific Northwest.
