A good beginning to a new year is what I will call ‘setting the table’ – clarifying expectations, resolutions and procedures. I want to post a quick guide to my wine reviewing guidelines and practices.
Now that I am no longer bound by the policies of any print publications, I have rebuilt my tasting practices from the ground up. Although I very much enjoy visiting wineries and chatting with winemakers on site, I don’t review wines there. I compile all published reviews and scores from tastings done at my home under tightly controlled conditions. I open about a half dozen wines at a time and almost always retaste them again the next day. I use carefully chosen stemware, and eliminate all distractions – no cooking smells, no food, no music, just me and the wines. The wines I’m tasting are almost always current and upcoming releases, and often recently bottled. I rest them a minimum of 10 days prior to tasting. My goal is to give them the opportunity to show their very best.
Out of respect for the hard work that goes into winemaking, and also for the sheer pleasure of taking deep dives into the wines I’m evaluating, I give myself the luxury of tasting them over many hours and days – no wham bam sip ‘n’ spit tastings.
Blind tastings that are devoid of context, history and important wine production information are not only impractical for me, they are pointless. If you trust my reviews enough to follow them, then I’ve shown you something worthwhile. Am I as ‘objective’ as someone tasting wine blind? My answer is yes. I think that if knowing what I’m tasting colored my judgment, then my scores would not match up nearly so well with those from other well-known reviewers, whether they are tasting blind or not.
Tasting for typicity, elegance and balance are the clear guideposts that lead to the best scores. Typicity means that your varietal wine tastes identifiably like a classic standard for the named grape. If your wine is notably different from the best of the rest, then it should reflect a unique terroir. For example, a Cabernet from the Rocks District AVA may have more in common with Rocks District Syrahs than with a Cab from Red Mountain. And that’s fine if it’s a clear example of that unique AVA. And if a wine is designated by vineyard, clone or block; if it is labeled old vine or winemaker’s select or reserve, it should justify that verbiage by clearly expressing something specific and desirable.
I have no quibbles with a light wine as long as it is not thin; I value an elegant wine if it isn’t too diffuse; a powerful wine that doesn’t sacrifice detail; a dense or compact wine that isn’t blocky or monolithic. Clearly the qualities I seek are more easily found at higher price points, but when I recommend an inexpensive wine you may be certain it stands out well above its peers. With that in mind, I’m going to highlight value wines at all price points with the following notations.
*– a particularly good value in an inexpensive wine
**– an excellent value for a mid-priced wine
***– a rare and superb value among expensive wines
We’ll give it a try and see how it works. Click on the winery name to access the wines.
Ayoub
Ayoub 2023 Chardonnay – Sourced from the Anonimo vineyard, planted a decade ago, this is barrel fermented and aged in mostly neutral oak, just 10% new. Tangy lemon drop fruit is the first to hit the palate, adding more citrus – notably pineapple – and nectarine as it spreads out. This brand new wine club release does not yet show up on the website. It has compact power, juicy texture, excellent length and the balance for aging a decade or more. More open and thoroughly delicious on the second day. 450 cases; 13%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
Ayoub 2023 Memoirs Pinot Noir – Each vintage of Memoirs honors a different family member, here the winemaker himself, pictured as a toddler atop a pile of oranges. It’s a barrel selection with fruit from all the vineyards that contributed to Ayoub wines in 2023 – Estate, Brittan, Anonimo, Red Hills Estate and Winderlea. It’s fresh and juicy, with compelling flavors of tart red berries, rhubarb, wet stone and dried herbs. Light and elegant, nicely layered with texture and medium length, it’s a wine to enjoy over the next six to eight years. 315 cases; 13.7%; $48 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Ayoub 2023 ‘???’ Vineyards Pinot Noir – Note the plural – this vintage combines in equal proportions Pinot Noir from Red Hills Estate vineyard and the Winderlea vineyard, The ??? designation references an agreement with Archery Summit (owners of the Red Hills Estate) not to use the vineyard name on these wines. These are two top tier vineyards, nicely blended in this supple, firm and balanced wine. Red and purple fruits are underscored with compelling minerality, and the biodynamically-farmed Winderlea grapes bring a judicious touch of savory, earthy highlights with a hint of compost. 210 cases; 13.4%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Ayoub 2023 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir – Mo Ayoub mixes his barrels like a painter mixes his paints; here he uses one quarter new barrels. This wine remains tight and chewy; aggressive aeration is highly recommended. Strong scents and flavors of savory herbs cloak the wild berry fruits. Still tight on day two. 350 cases; 13.7%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Ayoub 2023 Anonimo Vineyard Pinot Noir – This vineyard was planted by Mo Ayoub in 2013 with a mix of Pinot Noir clones. It’s fresh and juicy, with a light minty note along with tart citrus and white raspberries. Roughly 12% of the ferment included whole clusters. The overall balance is spot on, and the wine conveys a graceful assortment of flavors that lean toward savory rather than heavier fruits. 295 cases; 13.6%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Ayoub 2023 Estate Whole Cluster Pinot Noir – The texture of the wine reflects the whole cluster process, and the bright cranberry fruit, accented with orange peel citrus highlights, adds to the complexity. Aggressive aeration brings up layers of dried tea leaves, chamomile, fruit leather and an overriding minerality. Tasting on the second day it’s woven all the elements together in a seamless, textured wine that invites contemplation. 95 cases; 13.5%; $85 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Canvasback
Canvasback 2021 Red Mountain Merlot – This wine is composed of fruit from the Ciel du Cheval and Longwinds vineyards, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon also in the blend, and continues a strong showing for Merlots under the Canvasback imprint. It’s full, rich and supple, with tangy berries, coffee grounds, baking chocolate and sinewy, ripe tannins threading it all together. As in the previous vintages, half the barrels were new, half neutral. 14.5%; $58 (Red Mountain) 94/100
Canvasback 2022 Walla Walla Malbec – Released a year ahead of the 2021 Red Mountain Malbec, this is a juicy young wine with fresh-picked blueberries, blackberries and marionberries in abundance. It’s got some of the fruity lightness of Gamay and the tangy acids of some young Pinots, though you wouldn’t confuse it with either of those grapes. This Malbec carves its own path, with a nod to Bordeaux accented by the inclusion of 16% Cabernet Sauvignon adding savory notes to the finish. Les Collines and Eritage provided the fruit. 14.5%; $58 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100
Canvasback 2021 Red Mountain Malbec – A nice contrast to the Walla Walla Malbec, this is bigger, thicker, more mouth-filling and supple. It’s got a smooth, chocolatey flavor around cherry pie fruit. One third of the barrels were new, with grapes from Obelisco and Ciel du Cheval. 14.5%; $58 (Red Mountain) 92/100
Canvasback 2021 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – From a low yield (hence extra concentrated) vintage, this Cabernet (with 5% Malbec in the blend) spent 20 months in 62% new French oak barrels. Sourced from the Eritage and Les Collines vineyards at widely separated parts of the Valley, this is a broad, chewy, darkly fruited wine. Highlights of toast and char and coffee grounds are set around a core of black cherry, cassis and dark chocolate. 14.5%; $58 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100
Canvasback 2021 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Here the blend is 89% Cabernet, 9% Merlot and 2% Malbec, sourced from a dozen Red Mountain vineyards. It’s firm and focused, with ripe but not too grippy tannins, and a sweet core of ripe blackberry fruit. Aged 20 months in 40% new French oak, it carries the brand’s signature toastiness, set in perfect balance against the Red Mountain fruit. It finishes gracefully with touches of nutmeg spice, caramel, pipe tobacco and black tea. 14.5%; $44 (Red Mountain) 94/100 **
Canvasback 2021 Les Collines Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This first-time Les Collines vineyard designate has 17% Malbec in the blend, and spent 20 months in three quarters new French oak barrels. There’s a consistent style and flavor palate across these 2021 Cabs from Canvasback, with broad, lightly leafy, toasty highlights and deep black fruits at the heart. Char, tobacco, espresso grounds and dark chocolate are the accents; tannins are fully ripened and here a bit on the grainy side. The magic of this wine is that it’s instantly drinkable, powerfully structured, and cellar-ready for future enjoyment. 14.5%; $76 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100
Canvasback 2021 Grand Passage Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a single source showcase for Red Mountain’s Quintessence vineyard – 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Malbec, and given 20 months in 70% new French oak barrels. It’s packed with deep, dense flavors of black currant, black cherries, highlights of bay leaf, cedar shakes, ground coffee and baker’s chocolate. This young wine is approachable (with ample aeration) but is built for cellaring. When first opened you may expect it to be a tight, firm, dense, compact, classic Red Mountain Cabernet. 14.5%; $90 (Red Mountain) 93/100
Canvasback 2021 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Though not a classic expression of this storied vineyard, this brings forward flavors of blackberry fruit, along with a wash of lush barrel flavors (three quarters were new) – buttered nuts, toffee and coffee grounds. It shuts down quickly, maybe a sign of some reductive tendencies still working themselves out. 14.5%; $76 (Red Mountain) 91/100
Canvasback 2021 Longwinds Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This estate vineyard was planted in 2014, just to the north of Col Solare, relatively high up on Red Mountain. Though still some years short of maturity, it’s already delivering the goods, with ripe and flavorful fruit amped up with aging in three quarters new French oak barrels. If you like strawberry and cherry pie fruit adorned with toasty spices and savory highlights, no need to wait. But better integration and depth should come with another few years of bottle age. 14.5%; $76 (Red Mountain) 92/100
Canvasback 2021 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Grapes from the Klipsun vineyard historically sharpened the tannins and hardened the profile of all Red Mountain Cabernet, defining in large part the bedrock style of this essential Washington AVA. The vineyard has been extensively replanted, though the winery notes that this vintage was sourced from older blocks planted in 1984 and 1989. It’s an especially well-balanced Klipsun Cab, compact with a layered blend of berries, plums, barrel notes, coffee grounds, tobacco and cocoa. The 70% new oak plays a large role at this point, but the fruit holds its own, and the polished, lightly grainy tannins add texture and weight to the finish, trailing off into hints of tobacco and cigar box. 14.5%; $76 (Red Mountain) 93/100
Kiona
Kiona 2023 Old Vine Chenin Blanc – Though this is a blend, with 8% Viognier and 2% Roussanne, it’s pretty close to the pure old vine Chenins that have often inspired me. Principally sourced from the 45-year-old Phil Church vineyard, this balanced and fruit-filled wine includes lots fermented in clay amphora, French oak both new and used and stainless tanks. Nothing dominates, the texture melds the impacts of the mixed vessels, and the wine includes flavors of fresh greens along with a lush mix of tree fruits. 1966 cases; 13.2%; $19 (Columbia Valley) 91/100
Kiona 2022 Lemberger – Lemberger has been a staple at Kiona over many decades, and arguably no one in America does it as well. Despite the rustic tendencies of the grape, Kiona does a more stylish, sculpted version, at times almost like a Claret. Yes, the tannins remain a bit unshaved, the red fruits brambly and savory, but overall this is a flavorful every day red that has plenty of appeal. Pizza, burgers, ribs? Can’t ask for a better companion. 3403 cases; 14%; $19 (Red Mountain) 90/100
00 Wines
Double Zero has quickly attained cult status with a succession of spectacular vintages tightly focused on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Owners Chris and Kathryn Hermann seem to have somehow found a way to produce riveting wines right from the beginning, all without estate vineyards or a home winery (the wines are produced at the Carlton Winemakers Studio). The Hermanns also make wines in Burgundy and Champagne. I was one of the first reviewers in the world to taste their wines and immediately knew that I had found something truly special. It’s a great pleasure to discuss this new vintage. If you don’t already know 00, it should be on your must-have list, even if it means having to wait awhile to score the wines.
00 Wines 2022 VGW Chardonnay – The tension, the poise, the balance and the electric liveliness all speak to the power and refinement of this wine. Baked apple, lemon custard, lime with a hint of gooseberry… and more. The wine gathers strength in the mid-palate and spreads out from there, with touches of peppery herb or nettles. Lively and fresh, young and built to age, this shows the power of well-structured Willamette Valley Chardonnays. 1500 cases; 13.3%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 95/100
00 Wines 2022 EGW Chardonnay – Spicy, lightly buttery, full-bodied and instantly delicious, this is loaded with punch and power. Lively and showing a mix of fruit and phenolics, with excellent length and the gentlest touch of apple pie crust. These 00 Chardonnays have the finesse of fine Burgundy, but express a balanced profile with a disarming complexity that is unique to the finest Willamette Valley wines. This blend is two thirds from Chehalem Mountain vineyard, one third from Seven Springs Vineyard. Impressive how long these flavors linger, without deconstructing. 300 cases; 13.4%; $115 (Willamette Valley) 96/100
00 Wines 2022 Chehalem Mountain Chardonnay – Seductive aromatics introduce filaments of dried Italian herbs and a hint of cannabis threading through the core flavors of crisp apple and lemon fruit. This sets up a firm, dense, yet refined palate. The flavors build concentration and continue almost indefinitely, adding further accents of pastry crust and toasted hazelnuts. 13.5%; (Chehalem Mountains) 97/100
00 Wines 2022 Kathryn Hermann Cuvée Chardonnay – Beautiful, penetrating aromatics and layers of citrus flesh and rind build into a dense and detailed core. Clearly built to age, but already delicious, tart and compact, this wine slowly expands through a long and lingering finish. The fruit shines through all the way, with little intrusion from barrels or other unspecified vessels. 13.5%; $195 (Chehalem Mountains) 97/100
00 Wines 2022 Seven Springs Chardonnay – Full-bodied, mouth-coating and complex, this invites you to unpeel layers of citrus fruits, caramel apples, bee pollen, almond butter and toasted hazelnuts as it rolls across and down the palate. Luscious and broad, detailed and deep, this beautifully expresses the magic of the vineyard and the AVA, which has become the epicenter for world-class Oregon Chardonnay. 13.4%; $125 (Eola-Amity Hills) 98/100 ***
00 Wines 2022 VGR Pinot Noir – This complex, aromatic wine puts as many different layers and textures together as almost any Oregon Pinot I can recall. A blend of old vine grapes from Hyland, Shea and Chehalem Mountain, it wraps together a dense and delicate mix of berries, cherries, chocolate, coffee, licorice, caramel, baking spices and more. It’s long and lingering, dancing through a marvelous finish trailing out with orange zest and a touch of allspice. 1000 cases; 13.5%; $95 (Willamette Valley) 97/100 ***
00 Wines 2022 Stardance Pinot Noir – Full, firm and polished, this is sourced from 20 year old Pommard vines. It’s bound up tightly upon opening, but shows the sort of density that promises great things to come. Raspberry/cherry pastry holds court in this rock star wine. Decant or cellar to give it a chance to show all that’s there. 110 cases; 13.8%; $115 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100
00 Wines 2022 Shea Pinot Noir – This storied vineyard is the prime choice of many of Oregon’s finest producers. 00 has taken this exceptional fruit and chiseled it down into a beautifully sculpted wine with precision and power. Layered with blackberry, black cherry and barrel spice, electrified with vivid acids, it’s a lively, lifted, exciting wine that’s delicious in its youth but clearly built for the long term. 110 cases; 14.1%; $125 (Yamhill-Carlton) 97/100
