Being perfectly blunt, I’ve put off this list for two main reasons. First of all, I wanted to get through a backlog of potentially great wines prior to winnowing them all down to a final list. And the more I pondered, the more I considered that any list I called the ‘Top 100’ (or 50 or 25) would be misleading. The major publications brag about the tens of thousands of wines they’ve tasted in order to compile their lists. I’ve done a fair amount of tasting, but not anywhere close to those numbers.
My focus is on giving every wine I taste a good, long, repeated look – not piling up big numbers by zipping through dozens of wines at a time. So yes, the print mag lists are in some sense comprehensive, usually compiled from submissions by multiple reviewers scattered around the globe. So they can say we reviewed 25,000 or 30,000 or however many wines this year and here are the Top 100. But… consider these questions before getting all that excited about chasing down a wine from any Top 100 list.
1) Who did the original review? A person or a committee? Have you personally had any experience with their recommendations? Are there specific reasons for you to trust their credibility?
2) What criteria were applied to compile the final list of 100 (or however many) wines, and by whom?
3) A vast number of wines reviewed sounds good. But how does that impact the chosen 100? No two reviewers have the same palate or expertise. As a group they represent and are knowledgeable about widely diverse regions with completely different grapes and growing conditions. So what you get in most of these lists is a selection of wines from around the world which scored well. Coincidentally(?) most will come from countries or regions with big marketing and advertising budgets.
4) How many Top 100 wines come from major advertisers? A full-page ad – just one – in a big mag is a five-figure investment. A double truck spread? A pull-out feature? One of those articles with “paid advertisement” in tiny print somewhere on the page? Ch-ching.
5) What if someone’s Top 100 is derived from a pay-to-play wine judging? What wineries were entered; more importantly what wineries were not? Who were the judges? What are their credentials? How many wines were entered in any specific category? A platinum medal given to a wine that was one of a flight of four isn’t much of an achievement.
6) And finally, if the Top 100 wine you are seeking is still available, has the price gone up significantly? Is that 95 point $20 gem suddenly a rather ordinary $40 bottle?
As I was admittedly stuck on how to approach my own year-end best of, New York Times wine scribe Eric Asimov ran a column that solved this problem creatively. So with all due credit to him I’m going to follow his lead. In his most recent column, Asimov named his 12 most memorable wines of the year. But rather than a short list of exceptionally rare, expensive, unobtainable wines, he elected to focus on younger, more accessible bottles that nonetheless made a strong impression.
Following Asimov’s lead, I’ve looked at all my reviews for the past year and selected one truly memorable wine from each month. Along with the original tasting notes I’m adding some thoughts as to why the wine is extra special. Whether or not these specific wines are still available, they are signposts to quality, and subsequent vintages are quite likely to be just as good. I’m naming just one wine per month, one wine per winery, and one wine per variety or blend. So here we go…
January – Limited Addition 2021 Noble Dry Chenin Blanc
Bree & Chad Stock make a number of rare and compelling wines under the Ltd+ Limited Addition Wines umbrella. This Chenin may be the perfect match to Asimov’s find. Bree is an MW, with the broad experience and exceptional palate that such a degree demands. This gorgeous wine argues for more – much more – Willamette Valley Chenin Blanc. It has the aromatic complexity and intensity you rarely find outside of the Loire Valley Chenins. Layers of floral, pollen and honey scents lead into a cascade of grapefruit, blood orange, honey, breakfast tea, yellow apple and biscuity butter cookie flavors. The hands-off winemaking delivers the sort of complexity I’ve long believed makes this one of the world’s greatest varieties. More please! 14.1% (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100
February – Corollary 2019 X-Omni Vineyard Blanc de Blancs
I’ve chronicled the astonishing rise of Oregon’s sparkling wines in both quality and quantity, and this new producer is the first to specialize exclusively in Champagne method bubbly. An estate vineyard is being developed with the goal of creating an integrated, regenerative agricultural system completely focused on farming for bubbles. Corollary is off to a great start with sophisticated sparklers from a variety of sources, most notably this Blanc de Blancs from X-Omni. Impacted by the high elevation, Van Duzer Corridor winds, and volcanic soils, these grapes seem pre-destined to make sparkling wine of the highest caliber. Fine bubbles, a pretty lemon color, and lush flavors of lemon meringue catch the attention immediately. Let the wine sift down through your palate and you’ll find the length, depth, texture and persistence of world-class fizz. 103 cases; 12.5%; $75 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100
March – Force Majeure 2021 Red Mountain Estate Grenache
Some stunning releases came through in March, including any number from Todd Alexander under a variety of labels including Force Majeure, From The Sky Down and Holocene. I’m going with this estate Grenache – pure varietal, one third whole cluster, all concrete ferment followed by 18 months in used French oak. I can remember a time when it was accepted truth that no Grenache could be successfully grown in Washington. A wine of this stature pays homage to all those growers and winemakers who ignored that advice and forged ahead. This is brilliant work, rich, ripe and juicy. The slightly crunchy red berry/cherry fruits are annotated with candied orange, touches of baking spices, cocoa powder, coffee grounds and on it goes. Any wine made by Todd Alexander – and there are a dizzying number of wines and labels – is going to be a great wine. He simply has the gift. 213 cases; 15.2%; $85 (Red Mountain) 98/100
April – Matthews 2021 Reserve Claret
Claret is a rather old-fashioned term, popularized by the British wine trade as a generic reference to red Bordeaux blends. Though rarely used today, perhaps due to ongoing confusion as to its meaning, wines labeled as Claret have been a focus and a specialty for Matthews since its founding. The 2021 Reserve is principally Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot (20%) and Cabernet Franc (10%) filling out the blend. The Matthews team includes grapes from eight different sites scattered across four AVAs to make this wine, which honestly is astonishing. Generally in the wine world, such kitchen sink blends are destined for the cheap cuvées, or given a name that has nothing to do with grapes in order to build a “lifestyle” story. Here it is the result of careful, perhaps obsessive blending trials, committed to building a tight, focused wine with pinpoint Washington swagger. It’s big, bold and balanced; firm, tight, compact and layered with black fruits and threads of coffee, tobacco, earth, iron and baking spices. A true pleasure to taste as it unwraps, this is a wine that can cellar for decades. 490 cases; 15.1%; $195 (Columbia Valley) 98/100
May – WeatherEye 2022 Estate Roussanne
In the course of my decades of writing about wine, tromping through vineyards around the globe, and tasting wines in an often elusive search for genuine terroir, I have never been as gobsmacked by a vineyard as when I visited WeatherEye. Perched up and over Red Mountain in barren, rock-strewn soil, it’s among the least likely places I’ve ever seen produce amazingly great wine. I’m singling out the Roussanne from a portfolio packed with brilliant bottles because no one ever expected such a wine was even possible here. This is just the third vintage for these young vines, and each year brings more concentration, layering of fruit flavors, texture and depth. Wildflowers, citrus, lemon zest, spice and sandalwood contribute to the overall palate. The flavors continue to develop through a long finish, with clover and bee pollen and lemon drop adding their notes to the orchestra. Fermented in 30% new French oak, the rest a mix of amphora and neutral oak, this next spent 10 months in barrel and amphora before moving to stainless steel. It’s impossible to overstate the wealth of flavor and expressive ebullience of this wine. It was at its peak after 24 hours, and on the third day it was still showing new accents and an impossibly long finish. 62 cases; 14.7%; $85 (Columbia Valley) 98/100
June – Kiona 2021 Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon
Back to Red Mountain for my June pick – an astonishing 100% Cabernet from the original vines planted here in 1975. This is truly Washington wine history captured in a bottle, and it honors the vision and hard work that founding partners John Williams and Jim Holmes did when planting this site. There were no roads, no water, no wells, no infrastructure of any kind. And yet a half century later we have the privilege of drinking this wine. Dense, detailed, dusty and dark, this captures the essence of Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon which in many respects has become the iconic style of wine for the entire state. A wine to sit with and ponder, it’s built with layers of black fruits, black coffee, tobacco, toast and baker’s chocolate. I imagine someone will sit down with this bottle in another half century and look back a hundred years on this iconic vineyard. 229 cases; 15%; $85 (Red Mountain) 96/100
July – Saviah Cellars 2021 The Stones Speak Estate Syrah
Saviah makes exceptional Syrahs from a pair of Rocks District vineyards – The Stones Speak and the equally good Funk Estate (a clever match of the owner’s name and the signature flavor of wines from The Rocks). What both these wines do is capture the unique terroir without obliterating varietal character; so what you taste is a symphony of flavors expressing both the dirt and the grape powerfully and harmoniously. Dark to the edge of blackness, dense to the point of impenetrable, the pungent and potent Stones Speak Syrah carries the signature funk of the Rocks District yet remains balanced and doesn’t tire the palate. It’s a flavor mix of raisins, prunes and figs accented with notes of dried seaweed, hay, tea and compost – all in proportion. Flavors cascade across and down the palate, opening up layer upon layer as they go. If you drink this wine any time in the near future I would decant it, and then sip at it over the period of several hours. It’s one of those highly entertaining wines that will continue to surprise you. 305 cases; 14.3%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley/Rocks District) 96/100
August – Hyland Estates 2021 Single Vineyard Chardonnay
There are so many stunningly good Chardonnays coming out of Oregon that choosing just one for the year is a bit of a fool’s errand. Bergström, Domaine Divio, Walter Scott and others deserve equal praise. But I’ll give the nod to this one for the vineyard’s history, an old vine site that dates from the late 1970s. The aromatics are exceptional, with the depth and layering of a fine Burgundy. Once you taste it that first impression is confirmed – this is a spectacular Chardonnay. It’s densely packed with lemon, pink grapefruit, Cosmic Crisp apple, cantaloupe melon and green papaya fruit. Aging in 30% new French oak brings a lush toastiness to the creamy finish, which resolves languidly down through the palate, seemingly lasting for several minutes. 300 cases; 13.2%; $45 (McMinnville) 97/100
September – Antiquum Farm 2023 Daisy Pinot Gris
Grazing-based viticulture is the calling card at this marvelous winery. I’ve written extensively about Stephen Hagen’s dedication to these time and labor-intensive practices, and my visit to the farm a few years ago confirmed for me that there is a clearcut payoff in these wines. The 2023 is the first vintage from new winemaker Sam Ecencia, who took over the reins from Andrew Smith after working with Ted Lemon at Littorai. Along with the superb quality, Antiquum Farm wines offer exceptional value for the price, especially true with this Pinot Gris, a multi-dimensional wine with layer upon layer of beautifully orchestrated components. Citrus and melon, lemon verbena, fresh cut pineapple and more lead the way to a textured palate with restrained minerality, dashes of fresh herbs, immaculate acidity and a lushness through the finish. The vines are now almost a quarter century old. The wines sell out quickly. Get on the mailing list while it’s still open. 13.7%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 96/100
October – Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Ridgecrest Vineyard Pinot Noir
I reviewed 29 different Pinot Noirs from this winery in October, all from the 2022 vintage. And that was not entirely comprehensive – I believe there were a half dozen more that I somehow missed. Suffice it to say I adore these wines. Not only is each and every cuvée distinctive, they all emphasize elegance and detail over sheer power, and they all reflect careful attention throughout the winemaking process. As value plays they also stand above the crowd. This wine comes from the first vineyard planted (more than 40 years ago) in what would later become the Ribbon Ridge AVA. These old vines are owned and farmed by Harry and Wynne Peterson-Nedry, who had the foresight to believe in this terroir and plant here before anyone else saw the potential. This lovely bottle should inspire you to thank them and anyone else who maintains such rare and valuable vines; the wines they produce are ongoing time capsules that capture the past and lead into the future. This compact beauty brings ripe berries, tart tree fruits, pretty baking spices, silky tannins and light touches of clean earth into the mix. The balance, proportion and length are sensational. Delicious now, but worth putting a few bottles away for a future special occasion. 363 cases; 12.9%; $85 (Ribbon Ridge) 97/100
November – Long Shadows 2020 Pedestal Merlot
The late Allen Shoup, founder of Long Shadows and prior to that the visionary CEO of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, had a strong belief that Merlot’s rightful place in Washington was with the most classic and important wine grapes of the world. When he established Long Shadows 20 years ago it was almost a given that one of the featured wines would be Merlot, and Pedestal has been one of the finest made in Washington ever since. In 2020 there was a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and a splash of Petit Verdot in the blend, contributing to the overall depth and texture while still showcasing the signature grape. Entirely sourced from vineyards in the heart of the vast Columbia Valley AVA, this continues to set a high standard for Merlot in Washington and everywhere else in the country. Dark fruited, supple in the mouth, layered with blackberry, bitter chocolate, espresso and scented with toast and cured tobacco, it’s a wine that may be enjoyed immediately but should continue to evolve over the next 15 years. 2680 cases; 15.1%; $70 (Columbia Valley) 96/100
December – Abeja 2023 Viognier
Although my December tastings are not yet complete, this standout Viognier deserves to be highlighted. This pure varietal wine is sourced from a two-acre block at the estate vineyard adjacent to the winery and inn. The husband and wife winemaking team of Amy Alvarez-Wampfler and Dan Wampfler ferment it in stainless steel and neutral oak, letting the excellent fruit do the heavy lifting. It’s both floral and fruity, perfumed and powerful, with beguiling flavors of candied citrus, body powder, apple pastry, graham cracker, honeysuckle and more – a glorious mash-up that works beautifully. Drink lightly chilled to taste it at its best. 141 cases; 14%; $48 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100
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Abeja
More from Abeja. (For access to the estate’s more limited releases you must join the List.)
Abeja 2023 Chardonnay – For this new release the vineyard sources are in the Ancient Lakes and Walla Walla Valley AVAs, so expect a style change from previous vintages that featured grapes from Celilo among others. This is full-bodied, buttery and rich, with a creamy butter pecan aspect. That said there’s both ample acidity and a suggestion of skin (or seed?) phenolics, adding some bite to the finish. 1553 cases; 14%; $48 (Washington State) 92/100
Abeja 2022 Chardonnay – Sourced from the Mill Creek and Skysill estate vineyards, this was fermented in stainless steel and a mix of neutral and new French oak barrels. It’s a sleek, sexy style, nicely layered with orchard fruits, apple skins and accents of dried thyme. Beautifully structured, I wouldn’t be at all surprised if this drank at its best in the early 2030s. Note that this is not the more expensive and exclusive Skysill Estate bottling that grabbed a Wine Spectator award. 377 cases; 14%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100
Abeja 2022 Merlot – From the days when John Abbott was the winemaker here right on through the current team of Dan Wampfler and Amy Alvarez-Wampfler Merlot has been a shining star for Abeja. This is 100% varietal and needs no tweaking with any other grapes. It’s supple, silky and polished, with densely packed black fruits and seams of espresso. There’s a bitter streak running through the tannins, and it’s the good kind of bitter that you’d find, for example, in a pricey SuperTuscan. Both enjoyable now and ageworthy for at least a decade and likely longer, this is a superb wine by any standard. 1295 cases; 14.6%; $55 (Columbia Valley) 96/100
Abeja 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon – In ’21 only one grape was blended with the Cab – 13% Merlot. Aged in 40% new barrels, it puts a lot of flavor emphasis on the tannins, which bring mixed dried leaf flavors of tea and tobacco. Firm and drying, with dried cranberries and other red fruits at the core. I’m rather enamored of this wine, which seems to break the fruit-packed mold of so many Washington Cabs, but does not suffer as a result. In fact, it should definitely be the wine you pair with the next big juicy cut of beef on your holiday table. 4216 cases; 14.5%; $68 (Columbia Valley) 94/100
Abeja 2021 Heather Hill Cabernet Sauvignon – All estate, all Cabernet, all single vineyard. This brings the focus and density you’d expect – it’s compacted to such a degree that you’ll want to decant it. Just don’t beat it up with one of those aerators. This is a beautifully structured wine, whose fruit flavors run the spectrum from pomegranate to black cherry and cassis, wrapped in toasty oak (55% new). The tannins on all Abeja reds are smooth, silky and rich; here accented with buttery/creamy coffee flavors. There’s nothing fat or flabby here, and the wine finishes with the light touch astringency that all but demands the next sip. Brilliant winemaking. 662 cases; 14.5%; $90 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100
Saviah
Saviah 2023 Saviah Estate Vineyard Viognier – The Viognier vineyard is adjacent to the winery, and is treated like a favorite pet. Fermented in a concrete egg, this has texture, minerality, citrus rind and gin-like botanicals (yes, juniper) all in play. Nicely balanced, very refreshing, I’m tempted to say that if gin and tonic is your go-to cocktail, this should be your favorite wine. It’s Viognier with not a trace of sharpness or alcoholic heat. 177 cases; 13.5%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100
Saviah 2023 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay – This vineyard is a favorite of many Washington winemakers as a source of grapes for high acid, mineral-driven white wines. The fruit is bright and clean, and has been fermented in French oak. There’s a deft balance of barrel toast, buttery lactic acid and sharper malic acid, all of which neatly complements the straightforward apple flavors. 226 cases; 13.5%; $35 (Columbia Valley) 91/100
Saviah 2023 Three Mile Vineyard Chenin Blanc – A first from Saviah, this new Chenin was inspired by Jared Funk’s working a harvest in South Africa. Sourced from a Columbia Gorge vineyard, this deftly captures the elegant side of the grape. Aromas of bee pollen and flavors of mixed citrus, sharp but balanced acids, and a pretty lemony finish all contribute to a most enjoyable wine. My guess is that these are fairly young vines, and will develop more depth and detail over the coming years. Off to a good start. 44 cases; 13.2%; $35 (Columbia Gorge) 90/100
Saviah 2022 Malbec – When first tasted this drinks lighter than its listed abv, with rather delicate flavors of strawberries and mocha. It plays out broadly across the palate, though it doesn’t dive particularly far down after that. But after 24 hours it’s bursting with raspberry and marionberry fruit – tart and lip-smackingly dee-lish. A quaffable red that’s a lovely alternative to the regular red wine options. 193 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100
Saviah 2022 Une Vallée Red – This Bordeaux blend is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Funk Estate vineyard, 22% Merlot from the Anna Marie vineyard, and 22% Cab Franc from the Watermill vineyard. While it may be tempting to compare this wine to the much less expensive Jack Red (reviewed here also), the cépage of the two is completely different. Une Vallée is sourced from three Walla Walla Valley estate vineyards; it’s Cab dominant, enticingly aromatic and bursting with fresh-picked berries and barrel spice. Through the lingering finish the flavors firm up, adding black fruits, cherries, cassis, coffee grounds, iron filings and baking spices. 394 cases; 14.5%; $50 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100
Note the extra bottle and barrel time given these next two wines.
Saviah 2021 ‘The Funk’ Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – The third vintage for this wine, pure varietal, fermented and aged 18 months in 60% new French oak barrels. It’s a barrel selection designed to showcase the best of the estate. Due to a quirk in the federal wine laws the Rocks District, which is actually an Oregon AVA, cannot be officially used here even though this is an estate vineyard and the winery is maybe five miles away across the Oregon/Washington border. Crazy stuff. As this young vineyard ages I am certain that it will become as well known for distinguished Cabernet as it is already for Syrah; all the right pieces are in place. Dense black fruits, savory/umami hints and accents, a streak of espresso and details of cured meats, anise and tobacco are all in play. Aged 18 months in 60% new French oak. 168 cases; 14.5%; $75 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100
Saviah 2021 The Stones Speak Tempranillo – Saviah’s earlier release of 2021 Tempranillo was sourced from the Watermill estate vineyard and blended with 9% Grenache and 2% Syrah. The Stones Speak bottling is all Rocks District estate fruit and includes 10% Syrah. Although this is a hit and miss variety throughout the entire Pacific Northwest, Saviah nails it. Dense and focused, this wine has pinpoint flavors of black fruits, black licorice, tar and tobacco. Aged 17 months in 20% new puncheons, it retains some sharp edges that should smooth out further with decanting or more bottle age. 194 cases; 13.9%; $55 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100
Saviah 2022 Reserve Syrah – The reserve is a selection of barrels from four different Rocks District vineyards. Juicy black cherry fruit is showcased with spicy, well-integrated accent flavors of umami, cured meats, black olive and breakfast tea. This is Rocks District Syrah at its most stylish – just a little flashy, totally buttoned down, firmly in control. The length and depth of this wine elevate it to the top ranks, without becoming too huge and overpowering to obliterate most food pairings. 325 cases; 14.4%; $50 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100
Saviah 2022 ‘The Funk’ Estate Syrah – Sourced entirely from the flagship estate vineyard, co-fermented with 4% Viognier, and aged 18 months in 500 liter puncheons, 40% new. A streak of espresso rips across this compact, complex Syrah, dense with black fruits, espresso, black olive and anise, and underscored with light, lemony acids. The flavors penetrate and stay focused, deepening though a long finish. I’d put this among the top five Rocks District Syrahs year in and year out. 314 cases; 14.2%; $70 (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100
