I’ve tracked the growth of biodynamic viticulture in the Pacific Northwest with interest as more and more wineries, especially in Oregon, have adopted the practice. King Estate and Maysara are two of the largest, both principally growing Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. More recently Troon in the Applegate Valley and Analemma in the Columbia Gorge have joined a growing number of smaller producers offering varied portfolios that include rarely found grapes such as Vermentino and Mencia.
The most recent figures cited by the Demeter Association, the U.S. version of the international organization that is authorized to certify biodynamic farms and products, lists 17 biodynamic wineries in Oregon and four in Washington. Troon winery hosted an event last spring with the following biodynamic producers in attendance (a total of 18):
Southern Oregon:
Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden, Troon Vineyard, Upper Five Vineyard,
Willamette Valley:
Antica Terra, Brick House Vineyards, Brooks Winery, Cooper Mountain Vineyards, Domaine Willamette, grace+vine, Johan Vineyards, King Estate Winery, Landlines Estates, Maysara Winery & Momtazi Vineyard, Meredith Mitchell Vineyard, Montinore Estate, Soter Vineyards, Winderlea Vineyard & Winery
Columbia Gorge:
Analemma Wines
This past summer marked the 100th anniversary of the introduction of the theory and principles of biodynamic farming, proposed in a series of lectures by an Austrian scientist/mystic named Rudolf Steiner. Some of the methods required for strict adherence to biodynamic viticulture may seem arcane, and when pulled out of context are easy to dismiss as non-scientific balderdash. But I suspect that much of what attracts growers and winemakers to it are the non-interventionist, earth-friendly, soil-renewing capabilities. Biodynamic farming is not something to undertake lightly as it is extremely time and labor intensive. As for the actual winemaking, there are no shortcuts; by avoiding additions such as processed yeasts, bacteria and synthetic nutrients, winemakers are risking unwanted contamination that can ruin the wine.
From a reviewer’s perspective the key question comes down to “can I taste the difference?” Growers and winemakers often point to specific benefits they see in the finished wines apart from all the good karma acquired by working hand-in-hand with Mother Nature. They speak in terms of the energy in the wines, increased ageability and more vivid fruit expression. Having tasted many hundreds of biodynamic wines over the past couple of decades, I’ve reached my own conclusions.
No matter where the grapes are grown and the wine is made, certain attributes almost invariably turn up. Biodynamically grown and made wines have more subtle details, starting with the aromatics, continuing on through the mid-palate, and trailing out the finish. They do seem to be exceptionally vivid, even electric wines, with levels of complexity. They highlight earth tones and savory flavors beyond just good fruit – flavors that can be grouped into broad categories such as tastes of compost, moist soil, forest floor, fresh and dried herbs. As far as extended lifespans, I’ve done no comprehensive testing. But I can recount one anecdote from my own travels that unintentionally proved the point.
While planning my first visit to the Loire Valley many years ago my good friend the late Dan McCarthy urged me to make an appointment to meet with Nicolas Joly at his winery La Coulée de Serrant. At that time I knew nothing of Joly or his wines, but following the suggestion I found myself sitting in his living room early on a Monday morning in the spring. I expected a short meeting, some discussion of soil and vines, and a chance to taste a few wines.
M. Joly however was on a larger mission, having become an evangelist for biodynamic practices after converting his historic vineyard to biodynamic farming in 1984. This was not at all common at the time, and as I soon learned he was adamant about explaining the methodology and the reasoning behind it, with no skimming through even the most esoteric details. As an introduction to such then-foreign concepts it was mind-boggling. It was a Master’s Thesis in biodynamics, and by the time three hours later that we actually set foot in the vineyard my head was spinning. Following a light lunch we did taste a small number of wines, and as I was leaving Joly asked if I wanted to keep any of the open bottles.
I almost declined, as I was starting out on a busy trip that would take me to a couple dozen wineries and include massive wine tastings. But there was an older bottle that had seemed interesting – as I recall it was from the 1978 vintage – so I grabbed it, thanked him for his time and generosity, and set out for the next appointment.
I was traveling with a good friend in a cheap rental car. I tossed the opened bottle in the back seat and promptly forgot about it. Several days and many wineries later, we were rummaging around in the back of the rental, which was stuffed with suitcases, camera gear and more wines collected along the way. And there it was, rolling around on the floor. Surely ruined I thought. But it was a warm afternoon in Vouvray, where we’d spent the better part of the day, and I was thirsty, so I pulled the cork and took a swig. The wine was pure magic. After bouncing around in the back of the car for several days, it had remained thrillingly alive. Even now, more than three decades later, I can recall the flavors.
So yes, I’m a believer. But it’s not all sunshine and cow horns, and there can be a downside to biodynamic wines. In some respects they are just like any other wines, only harder to make. Things can go sideways in both vineyard and winery. You have to pay attention to the phases of the moon, mix of special teas and deal with all the usual afflictions of grape vines without the easy chemical fixes. Biodynamic grapes are still subject to vagaries of the weather, can be picked too soon or too late, hit with mold or frost or sunburn. The finished wines may tilt too far in the direction of earthy, even vegetal flavors; they may be too high in acids or suffer the opposite fate with super high pH. They’re wines, and as with all wines, you can please some of the people some of the time, and that’s about the best you can do.
As a final thought, I wonder if the emergence of non-interventionist viticulture and ‘let it be’ winemaking is turning away more traditional wine drinkers who like big fruit, big oak and high alcohol, while at the same time offering these rather sophisticated wines to less experienced younger drinkers? One more challenge in the way of simple enjoyment. Much as I admire and enjoy these wines, it’s not an easy path, they’re not all the same, and if not done perfectly the wines can be tough, chewy, herbal, under-ripe, out of balance and push the fruit way into the background.
I urge you to taste biodynamic wines whenever you can and take time to draw any conclusions. I will always call them out when I publish reviews. Included below are biodynamic wines from Winderlea and Soter, along with some excellent new bottles from Archery Summit, Big Table Farm, Brittan and Shea.
Soter
Soter 2022 Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir – This biodynamic vineyard goes from strength to strength, delivering a powerful, earthy, pungent wine with a rich tapestry of flavors. Fluid fruits underscored with citrus and tangerine inflected acids push up tart raspberry and rhubarb with peppery herbs. The wine spreads out across the palate and lingers through an earthy, dense finish. This is 30% whole cluster fermented and aged a year in 45% new French oak. Drink now through 2035. 2340 cases; 13.6%; $80 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100
Winderlea Vineyard & Winery
It’s been a couple of years since I last tasted Winderlea and a lot has changed. I asked Donna Morris, who owns the winery with her husband Bill, to bring me up to speed.
“Since last you tasted with us and visited Winderlea,” she writes, “we took on a long term lease on the former ‘Oracle’ vineyard. Amy Wesselman and David Autry sold their share of the vineyard to their partners David and Christine Vernier, and the Verniers are not in the wine business. They love the property and were happy to keep it, but not to farm or manage it. Bill and I were looking at more acreage in the Dundee Hills, and this seemed like a good opportunity. We have been farming and managing the vineyard since the 2020 vintage, and it has earned Demeter Biodynamic® certification as of the 2022 vintage. So we are now farming a total of about 45 acres in the Dundee Hills between our Winderlea estate vineyard and the former Oracle now re-named Worden Hill vineyard.
“Our goal has been to transition more to an estate model and farm/source Biodynamic® fruit. Happily, this 45 acres is all biodynamic certified. In addition to the Winderlea and Worden Hill Vineyards as primary fruit sources; we are still purchasing the same block of Shea Vineyard and selectively purchasing some Chardonnay for our sparkling program. Although, as of 2025, we probably have enough estate Chardonnay to meet our needs for still and sparkling.”
Among the wines reviewed here I was quite impressed with both sparkling wines, the Ewes’ View at Worden Hill and Winderlea Pinots.
Winderlea 2021 Vintage Sparkling Brut – The blend includes 60% Chardonnay sourced from the winery’s Worden Hill vineyard along with Brittan and Hyland in the McMinnville AVA. It’s mixed with 40% Pinot Noir from Crawford Beck. The Chardonnay is fleshy and fresh, bringing bright green apple and green banana flavors, while the Pinot fills out the finish with a touch of tannin and hints of red berries. A complete and well beautifully proportioned wine, this is built to age but drinking quite nicely already, with a long, pristine, clean and mineral-driven finish. 230 cases; 12.7%; $70 (Willamette Valley) 93/100
Winderlea 2021 Vintage Sparkling Brut Rosé – A blend of 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Pinot Meunier, sourced from the Crawford Beck vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Over the past decade there’s been a massive upgrade in Oregon sparkling wines, both in terms of quantity but more importantly in terms of overall quality. This is a traditional method wine with a traditional Champagne blend of grapes. It’s delicious, aromatic, full-bodied with a pleasing mix of orange and cherry fruit. The minerality underlying the fruit gives the wine a refreshing lift, and flavors linger clean and fresh through the finish. 80 cases; 12.8%; $70 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Winderlea 2022 Dundee Hills Vineyards Pinot Noir – This is all estate grown, biodynamic fruit, a five-clone mix It’s chewy and dense, with lemony acids supporting plum and black cherry fruit. Just a touch of new oak brings spice and incense highlights to the savory finish. 739 cases; 12.8%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 91/100
Winderlea 2022 Worden Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – The oldest vines here date from the 1970s; as with all the Winderlea estate wines this is biodynamically farmed. There’s a chicken stock flavor running through the wine, perhaps an aspect of the biodynamic farming, which brings an abundance of earth and herb and groundcover flavors. Pretty raspberry/cherry fruit opens up with aeration, and the overall fruit/acid balance keeps the wine fresh and lively. That said, the finish turns chewy and astringent, and those earthy/herbal flavors take over. 313 cases; 13%; $70 (Dundee Hills) 91/100
Winderlea 2022 Clos Vernier at Worden Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – Noted as an “old vine mix” by the winery, presumably from the block or blocks of 1970s vintage grapes at this estate vineyard. With details from the aromatics on out, this weaves tart currant, savory vegetable stock and a hint of chicken yard into the palate. Some tasters might wish for a bit more ripeness and forward fruit. This resonates with interesting nuanced flavors if you stick with it through the finish. 242 cases; 12.6%; $80 (Dundee Hills) 91/100
Winderlea 2022 Ewes’ View at Worden Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – A nod to the sheep grazing at this estate vineyard, this single clone effort shows tight focus, tart raspberry fruit, plenty of supporting acids and elegance throughout. Light exposure (16%) to new oak keeps the balance and elevates the delicacy of the fruit and details of aroma and finish. This should show its best over the next decade. 320 cases; 13%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Winderlea 2022 Winderlea Legacy Pinot Noir – The limited production and higher price point suggests this is a reserve, yet the alcohol is the lowest of the flight. It’s very light, delicate, on the verge of thin, but retains its balance with red currant and cranberry fruit, backed with moderate acids. The flavors trail off into a gentle fade with vegetable broth and mushroom notes. 161 cases; 12.4%; $105 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Winderlea 2022 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot Noir – This shows more concentration and bright raspberry fruit than the rest of the portfolio, at least when first opened. More forward fruit means more immediate drinking pleasure as far as I’m concerned. Past that this moves into a full-flavored mid-palate, juicy and brambly and mixing cranberry and raspberry and lighter hints of Bing cherry fruit with supporting acids. This old vine estate vineyard makes the most nuanced and detailed wines in the portfolio. 484 cases; 13%; $80 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Archery Summit
Archery Summit 2022 Dundee Hills Chardonnay – Sourced from two estate vineyards – three quarters Red Hills, one quarter Renegade Ridge – this svelte, sappy, sexy Chardonnay seduces from the first sip. OK, it’s an acid-lover’s wine, and count me in. Juicy, tongue-tickling lemon meringue pie goodness carries through a firm, lingering finish with a closing touch of oyster shell salinity. A perfect wine for halibut, swordfish or any whitefish entrée. 13.5%; $48 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Archery Summit 2022 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir – All five estate vineyards contribute to the blend. When first opened the wine is tight, even unyielding, which is why I give it a full 24 hours before finalizing my review. A quick slurp and spit review is not going to unpack this wine. Black cherry, cola, sharp acids, mushrooms and firm phenolics that bring a burst of bitter herbs are the first impression. After 24 hours it remains chiseled, but with smooth edges, a rich chocolatey core and brambly red fruits. 13.5%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Archery Summit 2022 Red Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir – A foundational vineyard with Jory soils and 30-year-old vines. This young, juicy wine shows power from the start, with tangy red fruits in abundance. The winery’s tasting notes mention goji berry. I confess not only have I never had a goji berry, I wouldn’t recognize one if I stepped on it. Nonetheless I find a pleasing array of more recognizable fruits such as cranberries, pie cherries and a hint of rhubarb. Aged in 30% new French oak, it finishes with gentle notes of sandalwood and mocha. 757 cases; 13.5%; $130 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
Archery Summit 2022 Summit Vineyard Pinot Noir – Some original 1994 vines are in the mix, giving this wine extra dimension and detail. As with all the 2022 Pinots from Archery Summit, this shows a tilt toward emphasizing the acids, and the palate has broad highlights of herb and leaf and stem around rhubarb, raspberry and cherry fruit. Overall this has more depth than the Red Hills, and a fine, firm, lasting finish. Beautifully balanced and poised for long term aging. Wait until the late 2020s to open that second bottle. 575 cases; 13.5%; $150 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
Archery Summit 2022 Arcus Vineyard Pinot Noir – With more concentration than most of the lineup, this has a big, round burst of cherry fruit touched with blood orange highlights. There are further textural details of mocha, almond paste, toasted hazelnuts and dried herbs well-integrated into a lingering finish. It continues to broaden and smooth out after re-tastes on the second and third day. The best drinking window may be in the 2030s. 829 cases; 13.5%; $150 (Dundee Hills) 95/100
Big Table Farm
Big Table Farm 2023 Pinot Gris (Vetch label) – This is a simple yet unique wine. “We ferment it as we do the Pinot Noir”, Claire Carver writes, “throw it in a fermenter, stomp on it, and let it go!” Lovely aromas of dried orange peel and crushed flowers are the entry point to a dense and detailed palate with kumquat, tangerine, Meyer lemon, candied citrus and breakfast tea suffusing the tannins. An extraordinary effort, unique among a plethora of good Pinot Gris that come from Oregon. This is a wine that must be pondered awhile to best be appreciated. 125 cases; 12.5%; $38 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Big Table Farm 2022 Chardonnay (Blossom label) – This strikes me as a nice advance in style for this wine, which despite lower finished alcohol has more concentration, density and depth than I can recall in previous vintages. BTF makes a number of Chardonnays, and this moves closer to the companion Eola-Amity bottling in style and power. It’s a dazzling effort that shows technicolor flavors right from the start. Citrus, peach, apple, pear, butterscotch, almond butter, toasted hazelnuts, ground coffee and on and on. Delicious start to finish. 92 cases; 12.6%; $48 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100
Big Table Farm 2022 Chardonnay (Honeybee label) – Bieze and X-Omni fruit combines here, producing a quintessential Eola-Amity Hills style. It’s full, firm, supple and refreshing, with layers of apple, tarragon and lemon rind, finishing with a touch of grapefruit and wet rock. The concentration is impressive. Tasted alongside the Yamhill-Carlton Chardonnay it’s clearly differentiated, and the two styles are complementary. I won’t say one is better, just different. On first taste I slightly preferred the Y-C; after 24 hours this wine slipped ahead. Fun stuff! 92 cases; 13.3%; $48 (Eola-Amity Hills) 96/100
Big Table Farm 2022 Cattrall Brothers Vineyard Pinot Noir (Truck label) – A stalwart at Big Table since 2009, this is one of the best yet but sadly with half the production (from spring frost damage) of the 2021. Re-drawn label still features the old truck; the wine is very low abv bringing rhubarb, tomato leaf and mountain strawberry flavors in a light but pleasing wine. I get the feeling that Brian Marcy has wrung all possible flavor from these grapes, which show more depth and texture and detail than would be expected given the lightly ripened fruit. Bonus – lovely aromatics! This is the sort of style where Pinot Noir can really shine and age well, as opposed to almost any other red grape. 64 cases; 12.2%; $72 (Willamette Valley) 93/100
Big Table Farm 2022 Pinot Noir (Barn label) – Artists make artistic wines, and that pretty much sums up what I find in everything from Big Table. This wine offers almost pointillistic details around strawberry/rhubarb fruit. Lush aromas mix fruit and flower; the palate coats light red fruits with a wash of mocha and sandalwood. The tannins are pitch perfect – not a hint of green or bitter flavors, but submissive to the fruit. It’s a beautifully proportioned wine, and I suspect that was a challenge to do in this vintage. 232 cases; 12.8%; $72 (Yamhill Carlton) 94/100
Big Table Farm 2022 Sunnyside Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chicken label) – Spicy with (apparently) more new oak highlights that punch through immediately. This is moderately riper and fleshier than the other Pinots, closer to full-bodied with purple fruits and substantial, grippy tannins. It really shines when you dig into the details: brambly raspberries, dried Italian herbs, a hint of flint and a chewy finish with coffee ground highlights. 241 cases; 13.9%; $72 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Brittan
Brittan Vineyards 2021 Gestalt Block Pinot Noir – This two-acre block has low yields, thick skins and delivers wines with potent flavors. High-toned, intense and loaded with crushed blackberries, this Club Selection bottling comes with strong supporting acids and the vineyard’s underlying minerality. It’s a wine that may well have decades of life ahead, but if you’re seeking the sheer joy of fresh, tangy, ebullient berry fruit, it’s already in prime form. The finishing highlights bring lemon peel and a trail of herbal tea. 120 cases; 13.1%; $65 (McMinnville) 93/100
Brittan Vineyards 2021 Heritage Block Pinot Noir – Named for its mix of Calera, Mt. Eden, Swan, Pommard and Wädenswil clones of Pinot Noir, the ‘heritage’ selections of California and Oregon, this bursts forth with crushed raspberries, black cherries and a swirl of mocha. Winemaker Robert Brittan keeps his finished alcohol at the low end of the spectrum, while managing to attain exceptionally ripe berry fruit flavors, supported by tangy acids. It’s a marvelous balancing act, built upon the unique estate vineyard terroirs. 106 cases; 12.8%; $65 (McMinnville) 93/100
Brittan Vineyards 2018 The Puncheon Pinot Noir – I periodically revisit wines from past vintages. I’ve recently enjoyed more than a few 2018 Willamette Valley Pinots and found them to be drinking exceptionally well. The extra years of bottle age help to pull all the different elements into a seamless, focused palate. This special bottling is compiled from small lots of Brittan’s single block Pinots that were fermented in open-top puncheons, custom-built 500L French oak barrels standing on end with one of their heads removed (a Headless Pinot would be a great Halloween release, don’t you think?) The finished blend is given extra time in bottle (almost five years) and held for late release. So the current vintage of this wine on the website is 2016; presumably this 2018 will be the next. It’s supple, smooth and loaded with red and blue berry fruit flavors. Citrusy acids underlie the fruit, and the wine has a compelling precision as it rolls on into a long, rich, chocolatey finish. 57 cases; 14.1%; $75 McMinnville) 94/100
Brittan Vineyards 2018 Estate Pinot Noir – I pulled this from my cellar for comparison to The Puncheon, as it also is made from multiple blocks of the 2018 vintage. So the difference between this and the 2018 Puncheon is in the ferments. When first opened the Estate showed a glossy vibrancy to the fruit; both immaculate and fresh. Side by side with The Puncheon it’s more lively and bright; the other wine is smoother and maybe a bit farther along the aging curve. My original review of this Estate read “Tangy boysenberry, blueberry and marionberry fruit comes through loud and clear, with a savory streak and supporting acids that provide a tart frame. The wine was aged in 18% new oak, and what shines through is the fruit and acid mix, along with the defining steely minerality of the site. It will benefit from additional bottle age.”
Shea
I asked Peter Shea to comment on the most recent vintages at his family’s iconic vineyard, from which these estate wines are drawn. He responded with these thoughts:
“The last three vintages (really four, I’d include 2021) are a remarkable streak of vintages in Oregon in terms of quality. While 2022 started off with a lot of worry due to a frost event in the spring, the quality of the fruit ended up being great. We weren’t picking until well into October, which most of us associate with rain and cool weather here in Oregon. Instead, it was completely dry and got hotter as the month went along with temperatures as high as 85 degrees. Because of this, we were able to get a broad spectrum of flavors. Early picks retained great red fruit and acidity while later picks gave us bigger, riper flavors.
“In 2023 we had a long, warm, close to ideal growing season. There was no rain but temperatures weren’t high enough to cause water stress in the vines. Picking was in early to late September with reliable weather, so everyone could pick at an ideal time. We’ve just bottled the first of these wines, which will be released in the spring, and they’re all beautifully balanced. These are the years that have ideal combinations of ripe fruit, complexity, and balanced acidity.
“The 2024 growing season saw temperatures that were moderate to warm all the way through the summer and we avoided any major heat spikes. Higher than normal humidity led to more work in the vineyard and more fruit being dropped from the vines, so yields will be lower than any of the other vintages we’re talking about. The important thing though, is that the quality is there. During harvest, we saw brix increase while the grapes retained acidity far better than in some past years. We’re hoping for a vintage full of complex flavors, but the last of the Pinots just went to barrel this week, so we’re still getting a handle on what the wines will be like.”
I also asked him about past vintages that are currently drinking well. His reply:
“I’ve tried vintages over the past few months that have ranged from 2022 all the way back to 2008, and everywhere in between. Some of my favorites have been 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2015, and 2019. The much older vintages of Homer seem to be outstanding right now. I recently had some of our block releases from 2010 & 2011 that still had some nice fruit while really showing the cool growing season complexity that made those vintages special once they had time in the bottle. Everything from 2014 & 2015 is outstanding right now.”
PG: Here are my thoughts on the latest from Shea:
Shea 2022 Tina-Louise Chardonnay – Everything about this Chardonnay rings my bell. The previous vintage set a new standard for Shea Chardonnays (and maybe for everyone else as well). It was aged 16 months in a combination of neutral and new French oak, concrete and stainless steel, a difficult balancing act that can be magical when it’s done well. The ’22 has been given comparable care, and though quite young (not due for release until next spring) it has the same sass and sexy mix of tree fruits, citrus, pineapple and veins of caramel as the previous vintage, though with lower alcohol. The length is sensational; one sip and you’re set for as long as you keep your attention on the flavors. 248 cases; 13.1%; $80 (Yamhill-Carlton) 97/100
Shea 2022 Neli Pinot Noir – This four-barrel blend pays homage to family history as well as serving as a stylistically more elegant counterpoint to the Homer reserve. It’s vertically structured, with layers of tart acid, clean berry fruit and light hints of mocha and dried herbs. Good length and persistence, with the tannins bringing an earthy foundation through the engaging finish. 92 cases; 13.9%; $90 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100
Shea 2022 Revel Pinot Noir – This punches in with a firm, earthy, toasty frame around tight blackberry and black cherry fruit. Aromatically inviting, it flares out with tangy strawberry fruit, touches of blood orange and smooth tannins that trail out gently, finishing with lingering flavors of orange pekoe tea. 236 cases; 13.9%; $90 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100
Shea 2022 Homer Pinot Noir – The Homer gets more time in new oak and includes the ripest fruit, which is an irresistible combination. A big burst of black cherry bombs the palate, with minerally freshness from the underlying acids. More forward than many previous Homers, this is instantly appealing, generously toasty, full-bodied and flavorful through the finish. Seams of coffee and dark chocolate enliven the tannins as they trail out. This is not a subtle wine; it’s a big old friendly black lab of a wine, that comes up licking and keeps on tickling the palate, day after day after day. 328 cases; 14.5%; $115 (Yamhill-Carlton) 97/100
