Freedom Hill Vineyard
Freedom Hill is set in the foothills of the Oregon coast range, five miles northwest of Monmouth, at an elevation between 350 and 600 feet. It’s now included in the new Mt. Pisgah sub-AVA. The vineyard is comprised of three parcels pieced together between 1981 and 1984. At the time, Dan and Helen Dusschee (doo-shay) were living in Salem, working in the juvenile court system, and looking to try their hand at grape growing.
“This [property] was way far out in the hinterlands,” Dan recalls. “The whole valley was in prunes. We researched elevation, exposure, drainage, all the usual things.” The Dusschees jumped in headfirst, planting the initial 13 acres of Pinot Noir immediately, and picking the first grapes in 1985.
Enough fruit for 60 cases was vinified at Bethel Heights under the tutelage of Terry Casteel; the rest went to Amity for their 1985 Nouveau. The 1985 vintage was one of the decade’s best, and using their sample bottles as a marketing tool, the Dusschees soon found willing buyers, including Arterberry, Erath and Ken Wright (for Panther Creek). As Dan explains “we knew nothing about farming. We didn’t know how to make a straight line in a row. How do you drive a tractor? How big a tractor do you need? We were fortunate that there were a lot of people like us, who also didn’t know anything. We all banded together, held weekly meetings, started tasting groups. The entire industry could meet in one room.”
That’s the romance side of the story. Reality was more challenging. “It was not the good old days,” Dan continues, “it was a challenge. We’re on a well. We’re from the city. The well runs dry if you don’t manage your usage. So we ran out of water. You learn from experience, and from other people’s experiences. We’re not building rocket ships!”
In 1995 phylloxera was confirmed in the vineyard. Son Dustin Dusschee, who now runs Freedom Hill, was a child at the time. “They [the parents] built it up for ten years, and then it all went away,” he says simply. “There were some lean years in the early 2000s. Very stressful.”
The following decade was devoted to replanting and expanding, until the last self-rooted vines were replaced in 2007. “We changed everything – spacing, trellising, row orientation” says Dustin. And good fortune has followed ever since; today their once-remote neighborhood hosts two wineries (Amalie Robert and Illahe) and nine vineyards. Freedom Hill’s 92 planted acres are three quarters Pinot Noir, 16% Chardonnay, 7% Pinot Blanc and one acre of Tempranillo (“Dan wanted to look out his window on the north side of the house and see something different…”).
“We are stewards,” says Dan. “This land will produce the kinds of wines that it does, and we don’t want to mess it up.”
Not only have they not messed it up, they’ve built one of the most important vineyards in the Pacific Northwest. It’s no accident that Patricia Green Cellars is a major client, producing up to six different Freedom Hill wines in a single vintage. I reached out to co-founder Jim Anderson for his thoughts on what makes Freedom Hill so special. He kindly provided the following information while waiting for the Freedom Hill fruit truck to show up with a couple of blocks of Pinot Noir as we spoke:
“We began with Freedom Hill Vineyard in 2012 and in some ways that event defines the beginning of a new landscape at Patricia Green Cellars. The fact that this older, historic site chose to call us meant something special. And I think it coalesced this era where we assembled fruit from the largest and most diverse pool of historically relevant Oregon vineyards (Durant in 2010, Arcus in 2014, Medici in 2015 and so on). A big difference was and remains both our commitment to them as a farm and farmers and their commitment to us to continually improved their farming quality. We began with nine acres with them in 2012 spread across five blocks and we are now at 20+ acres spread across 10 blocks. Since 2012 we have bottled between four and six Freedom Hill Pinot Noirs every year except 2020, and a rosé of Tempranillo since 2020.
“There aren’t a lot of 100% independent vineyards (not associated with or owned by a winery in any way) that have remained in the same family for 40+ years in Oregon. That is incredibly important to us. We’re a small business, we are a family (well, family-adjacent) business and we want to work with and support other Oregon operations that mirror what we see in ourselves. Dan and Helen Dusschee began the farm back in 1982 and their son Dustin returned to it and began farming with them in 2013 and now runs the vineyard. Despite it being a large site by Oregon standards at around 100 acres they take care of everything with their own crew. Real people doing real farming is definitely something we respect and honor.
“And, of course, the quality of the fruit the site produces has always been extremely high. A small group of wineries gets fruit and basically all of us do a Freedom Hill designate. This speaks to how the site has evolved from the humble beginnings back in 1982. Even in our dozen years with the site we have seen improvements in the quality of the vineyard and the fruit it produces. I think people that know Oregon wine think of Freedom Hill as producing dark, big, tannic and intense wines. And while it still does, it also produces fruit that is capable of incredibly subtle and distinct versions of Pinot Noir.
“We do bottle as many as six unique Pinots in quantities that have ranged from 47 to nearly 1,500 cases. We think this is one of the great American vineyards and are proud to have the opportunity to work with such a wide range of fruit from them. It also says something that we always find eager and willing homes for all these wines so the public at large knows this is a site of extraordinary quality. We’re lucky to have found each other so many years ago and we look forward each year to getting a shot at making something special from that site.”
PG: It’s one of the highlights of my year to taste the latest from Patricia Green Cellars. The Freedom Hill cuvées are a highlight all on their own. Here are my first notes (more coming next week).
Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – Many wineries choose fruit from this storied vineyard, but only Patricia Green Cellars bottles six different versions from various clones and blocks. This is the value blend, using grapes from across the lineup. Aromatic and tangy with mountain raspberries, lightly bitter herbs, tart acids and chewy tannins, it’s an engaging mouthful with finishing hints of coffee and pepper. Still drinking quite well on day three. 743 cases; 13.3%; $37 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pommard Clone Pinot Noir – From 20-year-old vines, this is aged in 28% new barrels, which set it up with pretty scents of sandalwood and toast. The fruit flavors mix red and black berries, supported firmly by sassy acids. The new barrel accents are proportionate and put a firm, toasty frame around the finish. All of these young Pinots, given their moderate abv’s and generous acids, are built to age and will need decanting for near-term enjoyment. 173 cases; 13.2%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Freedom Hill Vineyard Dijon 115 Clone Pinot Noir – It never fails to impress me how the winery can nudge such interesting nuances out of these wines. Here it’s the spice and savory phenolics that grab attention, as most of the ferment was whole cluster. A focused core of cranberry and raspberry fruit gives the young wine weight and depth, and the aging potential seems almost limitless. Were I more of an optimist, I’d put a few bottles away to drink in 2050. 296 cases; 13.6%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 93/100
Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Freedom Hill Perspicacious Cuvée Pinot Noir – This cuvée is compiled from a different clone every year – recent vintages have cycled through Dijon 115, Coury and Wadensvil. This new bottling is Pommard from the Heritage Block at Freedom Hill. From the winery: “a clear vision of a very specific wine…our finest effort.” Just one quarter new oak brings a lovely and lush coating of milk chocolate around the silky, sexy cherry fruit. There’s a touch of blood orange and a wrap of mocha. The layering of this wine is superb; instantly delicious but stacked with flavor that suggests aging will bring out more and more details. It has blossomed after being open for 48 hours. Drink now to 2035. 98 cases; 13.4%; $150 (Willamette Valley) 94/200
Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Freedom Hill Vineyard Wadensvil Clone Pinot Noir – This block dates from 2004 and this is the sixth vintage it’s been selected for a single clone designation. Aromatically fresh and compelling, it opens with a burst of pie cherry fruit, crushed raspberries, tangy citrus and a dusting of coffee grounds. It’s a touch lighter than the 2021, but nicely balanced, textured and detailed through the lingering finish. Best on the second day. 410 cases; 13.3%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 95/100
Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Freedom Hill Vineyard Coury Clone Pinot Noir – This special clone delivers the goods. Lots of spice, depth and texture, with a mass of blackberry fruit. The fruit has a fleshy roundness framed with sharp phenolics, and carries into a broad finish annotated with coffee grounds and dark chocolate. It’s a dense, detailed, powerful wine, with framing tannins and highlights of coffee grounds that linger as the flavors trail out. Best of show! 197 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 95/100
Ponzi Vineyards
Established in 1970, Ponzi was among the first founding wineries to put the Willamette Valley on the map as a world-class wine region. It passed successfully into the hands of a second generation for a good long time until, in 2021, Ponzi was acquired by Champagne producer Bollinger. Happily, Luisa Ponzi was retained as winemaker and vineyard manager. Following the sale she wrote to me to explain that “my sister Maria and I felt that we had grown what our parents had started (increased the planted acres, built the beautiful winery on the hill and maintained the quality and integrity of the wines) and we were ready to let someone else take it further. I feel lucky that we found the Bollinger family and even luckier that they wanted me to stay and just manage vineyards and make wine! I still have some spreadsheets, but far less and no sales reports or employee dramas! So, yes, it was gut-wrenching a bit, but overall it has been wonderful for my parents especially (in their late 80’s) to see the little winery they started achieve what they had hoped and confirm Oregon on the world stage of wine growing regions.”
As is often true, the changes continue. As of this year Luisa has transitioned her role to Legacy Winemaker, tasked with mentoring, coaching and guiding her long-term team to take the helm. Max Breuning, who joined Ponzi in 2016, has been named Winemaker. There seem to be many pieces in place for a smooth transition that respects and carries on the legacy established by the Ponzi family. Once again I reached out to Luisa for an update.
PG: How involved were you in making the 2022 wines?
LP: “I would consider the 2023 my last official vintage where I had primary decision making. This past year I have been serving as a consultant and advisor to Max Bruening who has been with me for the past eight years. He is a Michigan (Travers City) native who came out here to work a vintage with Lynn at Penner Ash, visited Ponzi and asked for a job in the cellar. He worked himself up to the role of Associate Winemaker in 2021 and now, Head Winemaker. Additionally, I am training Julia Cresto as viticulturist. Julia has been with me for five years and was most recently Assistant Winemaker and Enologist. It is fantastic to have these two at the helm. They certainly carry on the ethos of winemaking style from myself (and my father before), but also are open to new direction from Groupe Bollinger as they evolve.”
PG: For comps I pulled a couple of wines from my cellar: 2012 Abetina2 and 2014 Abetina. Both in perfect condition. What is the current status of the Abetina block?
LP: “Abetina is one of the sites that we sold to Bollinger (sadly). The majority of the vineyards we still own and I continue to oversee our vineyard team (now Laurelwood Vineyard Management) and farm all of the Ponzi Vineyard properties and Ponzi family properties. In total 200 acres of vines of which all the fruit goes to Ponzi. Abetina is now almost 40 years old and is still producing a full crop and in good health. In fact, we just picked it this morning and received about 2.7 tons/acre. Most striking to me is the natural balance of canopy to fruit. We rarely must thin in that block to achieve balance.
“This past year I was pleased that Ponzi Vineyards chose to invest in Marco Simonet’s guidance for sap flow pruning. The goal being to maintain these old vines as long as possible. Marco was confounded to discover that our old vines have no trunk disease! Phylloxera remains a threat with vineyards in the close area falling to it, but I think the use of our own crew and equipment has kept us somewhat isolated from it for now.”
PG: Any further thoughts on the wines and the winery since the sale in 2021?
LP: “So many thoughts! The whole experience of selling our family winery to a Champagne house, my continuation making the wines under new ownership and being witness to the changes has been fascinating. I would summarize it quickly by saying that I am pleased with the attention and focus on the vineyards and winemaking. That was our hope by selling to such a quality-driven name and that hope has been fulfilled by their actions. They have invested in over 100 acres of new vineyard land, new equipment in the cellar and in the people working there. I believe the wines will slowly change in style (as expected with any change in winemaking), but the vineyard sources will remain mostly the same. The focus on the Laurelwood District AVA has become even stronger which makes me very happy!
PG: And a new project for you?
LP: “For myself, I am more than content to return to our original winery and vineyard and make wine under my own label on a very small scale this vintage. It has been a kind of homecoming to the building where my father and I made wine together and a rediscovery of the joy of making wine. I can’t wait to show you sometime!”
PG: And I do look forward to that. Now, on to my thoughts on these 2022 wines. I last tasted the 2019 vintage wines; no wines were made in 2020 and I missed out on tasting almost all of the 2021 vintage. So I was more than curious to explore the first of the 2022 wines, some released this past spring, some due out this fall and winter. Maybe I should have held off a bit longer on tasting the still-unreleased wines; maybe I’m clinging to the very fond memories of great Ponzi wines from decades past. Although these ‘22s are soundly made, balanced and promising wines, I couldn’t help feeling that a bit of the old spark was missing. I went to my cellar and pulled out a bottle from 2012 and one from 2014 as comparisons. Notes on all of them are below.
Ponzi 2022 Laurelwood Chardonnay – Production raised from 2019. Production notes don’t add up (“in barrel 16-20 months and additional one year in bottle). Something slightly off at first – bottle shock? – disjointed with a sour and bitter finish. Second bottle a little better, and much improved on the second day. The acids are more in proportion, with juicy citrus fruit. 1100 cases: 12.7%; $43 (Laurelwood District) 91/100
Ponzi 2022 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay – Bright citrus fruit flavors of Meyer lemon, mandarin orange and tangerine. The zesty acids and seashell notes fill the mid-palate and linger through the finish. There’s a trailing hint of grapefruit as the acids punch up at the end. 181 cases; 13.4%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 92/100
Ponzi 2022 Avellana Vineyard Chardonnay – Good concentration with a sappy core of apple fruit, lightly spiced with barrel toast (fermented and aged in neutral oak, but that can still bring some spice). This is a balanced and flavorful wine, though less nuanced and concentrated than the best of the recent vintages. 201 cases; 13.4%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 92/100
Ponzi 2022 Laurelwood Pinot Noir – Off to a good start with a toasty open and solid fruit flavors of sour cherries. Sourced from five estate vineyards, this is already drinking nicely but could improve over the rest of the decade. The finish is a bit lean and acidic, with herbal highlights. Released last March. 7600 cases; 13.8%; $47 (Laurelwood District) 90/100
Ponzi 2022 Eola-Amity Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir – This is a blend of two vineyards, still young (released last April) and tight. There’s a core of tart berry/cherry fruit, and a wash of mocha as it leads down through the finish. The notes indicate 50% whole clusters and 50% new barrels, but the impact seems muted. Light touches of savory phenolic flavors peek through, with little indication of barrel toast or spice. This is solid yet a bit monolithic. 191 cases; 14%; $95 (Eola-Amity Hills) 91/100
Ponzi 2022 Issimo Vineyard Pinot Noir – Spicy and fresh, this is an inviting wine, compact and layered with a mix of raspberry, plum and cherry fruit. It blossoms in the mid-palate, filling out into a finish showing espresso and dark chocolate highlights. Due for release this November, it’s bound to show further improvement with a bit more time. 177 cases; 14%; $95 (Laurelwood District) 92/100
Ponzi 2022 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir – This 30+ year-old vineyard is the jewel of the portfolio. Due for release next February, this preview shows good structure and detail in compact form. It’s dense with black fruits, espresso and tar, buoyed with ample acids and highlighted with barrel spice. 326 cases; 14%; $115 (Laurelwood District) 92-93/100
Reference wines from my cellar:
Ponzi 2012 Abetina2 Pinot Noir – This is/was a special block of the Aurora Vineyard. At 12 years of age it is vibrant, tart with raspberry and blood orange fruit, nicely annotated with a swath of milk chocolate and overall in perfect balance. In my cellar since its release it might be considered the equal of a winery library wine. Does it indicate what is to come for these 2022s? This has similar flavors with more concentration and depth overall. Should age well for another 10 years. Based on this tasting, and before re-visiting my original review and score, I’m giving this wine 94/100
My original review from October 2014 – Ponzi 2012 Abetina2 Pinot Noir – Deep, dark and instantly compelling, this powerful wine features black cherry and cassis fruit, adorned with clove, citrus, cardamom, nougat and mocha. The chewy tannins and overall tightness suggest that further cellaring will continue to improve it. Drink 2016 through 2030. Cellar Selection. 115 cases; 13.8%; $100 94/100
Ponzi 2014 Abetina Pinot Noir – Two acres planted in 1975. This is sharp-cornered, with hard stops at the tannins. Tight purple fruit flavors, firm and savory tannins, seems locked into place and defended with hard, bitter tannins like a stone wall around a medieval castle. A perfect example of a wine needing decanting. Based on this tasting, and before re-visiting my original review and score, I’m giving this wine 92/100
My original review from March 2017 – Ponzi 2014 Abetina Pinot Noir – Focused and dense, this intense wine captures the essence of ripe raspberries. Aged in 50% new French oak, it’s got a strong vein of coffee and mocha. The flavors broaden out and penetrate, finishing with highlights of cedar, cinnamon and dark chocolate. Drink now through the 2020s, but decant if you want the full expression. 110 cases; 14.8%; $105 94/100
During my 25-year run as the principal NW wine reviewer for Wine Enthusiast I was especially pleased to see many Oregon and Washington wines featured year in and year out in the magazine’s three annual ‘Top 100 Best of” lists – Best Buys, Best Cellar Selections and Best of the Year. As a region the Pacific Northwest regularly out-performed every other wine producing region or country in the world in terms of the percentage of wines featured relative to overall production. And their overall value (most evident on the latter two lists) dramatically outshone the super pricey bottles from Napa, Italy and Bordeaux that were list mainstays.
The first of this year’s Top 100s has just been published: Best Buys Under $20 (a bump up from the $15 price limit of past years). Here are the seven wines from the Pacific Northwest that made the cut.
#73 – Portlandia 2022 Pinot Gris (91/100; $17)
#64 – Erath 2022 Resplendent Pinot Noir (91/100; $19)
#29 – Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Sparkling (91/100; $13)
#27 – Long Shadows 2023 Poet’s Leap Riesling (93/100; $20)
#21 – Three Rivers 2022 River’s Red (90/100; $14)
#10 – Amalie Robert 2022 Book Club White (93/100; $20)
#1 – King Estate 2022 Inscription Pinot Noir (90/100; $20)
On balance this is a rather weak showing, in terms of both the number of wines and a few rather mundane choices. This is no criticism of my friend and successor Michael Alberty, whose reviews I very much enjoy. He had no vote in choosing which of his reviews made the list, which is compiled at the magazine’s New York headquarters. And I very much applaud the fact that King Estate nailed the number one spot – a well-deserved accolade for a winery whose Pinot Noirs have been overlooked for too long. Portlandia is a value brand that deserves its spot on the list. And the Poet’s Leap is a stunningly good Riesling that I will review next week. As for the rest… well most come from big companies with substantial advertising budgets.
