Adventures in Northwest Viognier

Some years ago I embarked on a quixotic quest to renovate the reputation of a particular white wine grape that had all but disappeared from Northwest wineries. Though Chenin Blanc had been planted (mostly in Washington rather than Oregon) back in the 1980s, by 2010 only a handful of wineries – notably Kiona and L’Ecole No 41 – were even trying to make a pure, dry, old vine version. So I decided to give it a go. A couple of visits to the Loire valley, where Chenin Blanc flourishes in a wide variety of styles, convinced me that old vines were the key to quality. Yet in Washington the oldest vineyards were being ripped out or grafted over, and those remaining were generally over-cropped and the fruit mixed into generic white blends or cheap fizz.

My project, bottled under the Waitsburg Cellars label, was an attempt to find the oldest obtainable Chenin grapes and make the best possible wine in two different styles. Stylistically it succeeded. Even won some nice awards. And following the retirement of the label almost a decade ago, it does seem that the interest in quality Chenin Blancs has grown, and a number of small producers have jumped on the old vine bandwagon. But I wouldn’t go so far as to say it has become a widespread success. In fact, an even more obscure white wine grape has pushed it aside.

Viognier is the unlikely white wine grape that has grabbed the imagination of winemakers and inspired a devoted following among consumers. It’s a grape that was almost completely unknown 25 years ago, a French grape that a few decades earlier was almost extinct in France, and worse still is saddled with an almost unpronounceable French name. I’ve heard it called vogner, veener, veegener, vee-oneer and just about any other imaginative pronunciation. For the record it’s vee-oh-nyay, and it is having a small but thrilling renaissance throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Though planted experimentally at Mike Sauer’s Red Willow vineyard back in 1983, it really didn’t gain any traction in Washington until about 20 years ago. And only recently have Northwest Viogniers, including excellent versions from southern Oregon, start to settle comfortably into a distinctive, balanced style.

Like Chenin Blanc, Viognier can express itself in a broad range of styles, though it seems to have a narrow window for optimal ripeness, depending of course upon the location of the vineyard. If picked too soon the flavors can be bitter and the finish thin; if picked too late the wine gets fat, oily and alcoholic. Pick it exactly right, ferment and age it in stainless steel or concrete or neutral wood, and Viognier will strike a neat flavor chord composed of citrus blossom, zest of lime and grapefruit, vivid peach and apricot stone fruit, and a tangy, sometimes-creamy, textured elegance. When it works, Viognier really works.

Saviah’s Rich Funk talks about the small plot of Viognier that he grows adjacent to the winery with a mix of admiration and angst. “I spend more time worrying about this little two acre block than anywhere else,” he says. “We farm this like you’d farm in The Rocks. We bury a cane because it gets cold here before it gets cold anywhere else. But the Viognier ripens well, we can grow it, pick it with good pH and good acidity, press it, put it in concrete eggs. It’s the simplest wine to make, the hardest wine to grow.”

Around the turn of this century a growing interest in cultivating Rhône varieties, evangelized by groups such as California’s Rhône Rangers, also built some early demand up north. Syrah was the leading variety, and winemakers emulating the great Syrahs of France wanted to do Rhône-style co-ferments with Viognier. It’s not unlikely that since those co-ferments included no more than five percent Viognier, there might have been a barrel or two left over to play with as a pure varietal wine.

When I put together a list of Washington Viognier producers 15 years ago there were, rather surprisingly, over two dozen. There are at least that number making varietal versions today, and probably the same number in Oregon. Far more include it in white blends, or to co-ferment with Syrah. Despite its growing cachet the grape remains on the periphery. Even in so comprehensive a book as the latest edition of Karen MacNeil’s “Wine Bible” it gets no U.S. mentions other than a brief reference to Virginia, where it has become a signature grape. Jancis Robinson’s “Wine Grapes” does include mentions of Viognier growing in Oregon and Washington, though the statistics are 15 years out of date. I doubt that there are more than a few hundred acres planted in either state even today.

Nonetheless the grape’s impact on high quality Rhône-inspired blends and varietal wines is out-sized, especially in southern Oregon and throughout the Columbia Valley. Look for examples from the Rogue and Applegate AVAs of southern Oregon, from Cristom in the Willamette Valley and widely-separated AVAs nested within the Columbia Valley. Though far from a comprehensive list, I’ve tasted a number of quality Viogniers just this year. Some highlights:

Force Majeure 2022 Red Mountain Estate Viognier – Thick, rich, ripe and mouthcoating to a degree rare with any Northwest Viogniers, this is the wine to pour for any of your tasting pals who profess not to like this grape. Yes some Viogniers can be thin, sharp, it can be grassy or hot… but when it’s full-bodied, loaded with tree fruits, framed with supple acids and mouth filling to the point where you grab the glass for the next gulp… when it’s like this. That’s when you load up the cellar and make this your summer 2024 big bold white wine. 80 cases; 14.6%; $65 (Red Mountain) 97/100

Gramercy 2023 Viognier – Two widely separate sites provided the grapes:  Antoine Creek vineyard east of Lake Chelan, and Forgotten Hills, on the east side of the Walla Walla valley. Fresh, crisp and precisely-defined, this bone dry Viognier cuts through with citrus, apricot and white peach, even a touch of grilled pineapple. It was fermented roughly half in stainless and half in neutral oak, yielding a wine with lovely balance and density. It’s a polished and thoroughly enjoyable bottle that may be lightly chilled and enjoyed immediately. 550 cases; 13.5%; $32 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Maison Bleue 2022 Voltigeur Viognier – Sourced from a new vineyard just off the highway at the east end of the Rocks District AVA, this is loaded with flavors of peach, nectarine and guava fruits. It’s got a little bite to it as it settles down the palate, but with ample breathing it smoothes out and the aromatics explode. Barrel aged on the lees for eight months, it finishes with a touch of honeycomb and breakfast tea. 475 cases; 14.2%; $45 (Rocks District) 91/100

Mercer 2023 Small Lot Viognier – A fine vintage for this wine, perfectly perched atop a fruit salad of peach, banana and papaya. Supported by gentle acids, it rolls through a finish punctuated with a hint of bitter tannins. Long,  clean and persistent, this is a beautifully balanced, not too ripe style. 212 cases; 13%; $27 (Horse Heaven Hills) 91/100

Padigan 2022 Viognier – A relatively late harvest gave the grapes extra hang time, the wine enhanced aromatics and the palate both density and detail. This is a tight, focused wine, packed with citrus and stone fruits, sappy acids and peppery spices. Aged on the lees in stainless steel, it was released this past November. Drink now through the rest of the decade. 131 cases; 14.1%; $26 (Rogue Valley) 91/100

Valley View 2021 Viognier – This was given skin contact for five days ahead of fermentation, which gives it depth, texture and a slight (but not off-putting) bitterness. Medium bodied with a mix of apple, white peach and cucumber flavors. 350 cases; 13.5%; $26 (Applegate Valley) 90/100

Viognier is also an important component in white blends such as Brian Carter’s 2022 Oriana White Blend (50% Viognier, 40% Roussanne and 10% Riesling); Marginalia’s 2022 Amber Wine (co-fermented Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne); The Walls 2022 French Creek Vineyard Lip Stinger White (a mash-up of 45% Grenache Blanc, 32% Viognier, 12% Marsanne, 8% Roussanne and 3% Picpoul); and WeatherEye’s 2022 L’atomique Estate White Wine (36% Viognier, 32% Roussanne, 22% Grenache Blanc, 7% Clairette and 3% Marsanne).

If your white wine choices have been limited to Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and dry Riesling, Viognier would be an optimal first step on a new wine adventure.Subscribe

Bledsoe Family Winery

The Bledsoe Family wines are special offering to wine club members, with the same high quality found in Bledsoe’s Doubleback portfolio. But with such limited production, they quickly sell out. Just released:

Bledsoe Family Winery 2022 Merlot – Pure varietal from the Schafer and McQueen estate vineyards, this wine is a flat-out stunner. The two vineyards are at opposite corners of the the Walla Walla Valley AVA, and their synergy is apparent in the fleshy vitality, depth and texture on display. Rich cherry and mocha flavors lead into a broad mid-palate with accents of tobacco and cedar from aging in half new barrels. Lush in the mouth and long in the finish, this is great Walla Walla Merlot; if only there were more. It’s just been listed on the website so don’t delay. 100 cases; 14.2%; $65 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Bledsoe Family Winery 2022 Cabernet Franc – Here again the estate vineyard sources – LeFore and Schafer – represent distant and different parts of the Walla Walla Valley AVA – Rocks District and Mill Creek Uplands. The blend includes 10% Merlot, and that seems to have softened up the palate (adding a “hint of sex appeal” notes the winemaker). A lush mix of plum, cassis and black cherry, with a lemony tang to the acids, a wash of coffee, hints of caramel, and taut, focused tannins. Just one quarter of the barrels were new, giving the excellent fruit a chance to shine. 200 cases; 14.3%; $75 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

Gramercy Cellars

Gramercy is holding the red wines back a bit longer than most wineries, perhaps an acknowledgment that they are built to age and are not as immediately accessible as more open, fruit-powered wines. These are current releases. The winery has long put a strong focus on Syrah, though in this latest tasting, it’s the Cabernets that really stood out. There is also single vineyard Pinot Noir, one of a number from Walla Walla wineries diversifying their offerings with Willamette Valley grapes.

Gramercy 2023 Mourvèdre Rosé – The Olsen vineyard sourced the grapes for this pure varietal rosé. Mourvèdre yields a broad, lightly savory wine modeled after a Bandol. There’s plenty of acid and a mix of strawberry and mild melon fruit flavors. Best drunk chilled. 110 cases; 13%; $42 (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Gramercy 2021 The Third Man Grenache – Though labeled Grenache, this is a GSM with one quarter blended from Syrah and Mourvèdre. I’m tempted to borrow a line from Robert Mondavi and call it sculpted, as if carved out from the raw materials and given form and substance. Brambly berries abound, with accents of white pepper and a phenolic frame. The length and proportions are lovely, the concentration lingers through the finish, with a burst of blue and purple fruits. 465 cases; 14.5%; $48 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Gramercy 2020 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah – This was whole cluster fermented with 5% Viognier included. It nails the winery style – savory, layered, lightly floral, with balanced blackberry and citrus fruits. Supported with firm acidity, there is no exposure to any new oak, nor is it missed. Given the austerity of these Gramercy Syrahs, holding them back for a few extra years is recommended, as they are clearly built to age. 242 cases; 13.5%; $65 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Gramercy 2020 Holy Roller Vineyard Syrah – Though it’s a relatively light expression for a Rocks District vineyard, with little of the AVA’s typical ‘funk’, this is a well-balanced wine with purple fruits, peppery spices and hints of pastrami and balsamic. It was co-fermented with 4% Viognier, one third whole cluster, and aged in neutral puncheons. Best drinking window should begin toward the end of the decade. 142 cases; 13.5%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Gramercy 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon – If you’re looking for a Washington Cabernet that balances power and elegance, this is it. Sourced principally from Sagemoor and Phinny Hill vineyards, with a 13% addition of Leonetti’s Loess vineyard Merlot, it’s a complex weave of blueberries, blackberries and cassis, streaked with coffee and chocolate. Tannins are savory and smooth, and the overall balance suggests decades of aging ahead. 774 cases; 14%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Gramercy 2020 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This Horse Heaven Hills vineyard is one of this state’s most important sites, literally across the road from Champoux, and a contributor to many of Washington’s most revered reds. It’s 100% varietal, tight and focused, with a panoply of black fruits and accents of licorice, char and espresso. It comes to a concentrated core that retains its balance, detailing out the finish with hints of savory herbs. Drink now and through the 2030s. 194 cases; 14.3%; $65 (Horse Heaven Hills) 94/100

Gramercy 2019 Sojeau Vineyard Pinot Noir – It’s always interesting to note the back-and-forth projects among Walla Walla and Willamette Valley vintners. Grapes are exchanged regularly so that they can explore different varieties, generally Pinot Noir from Oregon and Syrah or Cabernet blends from Walla Walla. This Willamette Valley vineyard is showcased in single vineyard expressions by Andrew Rich, Owen Roe and Walter Scott among others. Gramercy puts a Walla Walla spin on the fruit, amping up the tannins and bulking up the core. It pushes the flavors closer to Gramercy’s Syrahs – not a criticism, just an observation – with a mix of blackberry and black cherry fruit, a streak of espresso and dark chocolate, and a strong savory component. 213 cases; 13.5%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills) 92/100

Gramercy 2023 Picpoul Pét-Nat – This is delicious, clean, bursting with fresh fruit flavors of apples galore. Not at all cidery, but yet tasting of explosively fruity and spicy apples, backed by yeasty pastry, this should be consumed, as the winery suggests, cold… and soon. 50 cases; 12.5%; $39 (Walla Walla Valley) 90/100