In my ongoing explorations of Oregon wines, I’ve had the opportunity to taste thousands of Pinot Noirs from specific vineyards in numerous sub-AVAs. While all these sub-regions have defining attributes, certain properties within each of them best express their AVA with focused specificity. In the McMinnville AVA, there are a handful of sites that have continually met that high standard.
The McMinnville AVA was formerly certified on January 18th, 2005. Though the total area is a generous 40,000 acres, only about 750 are currently planted to wine grapes. Up to date statistics are hard to find, but I count at least 16 vineyards, 10 wineries and at least a half dozen tasting rooms. And with the bustling city of McMinnville close at hand, visitors can easily find a wide variety of tasting opportunities covering virtually all the Willamette Valley AVAs.
McMinnville is one of a small number of AVAs that are defined at least in part by elevation. The vineyards must lie between 200 and 1,000 feet, which differentiates their soil and rock substrata from surrounding areas. In some places soils are shallow and rocky, primarily uplifted marine sedimentary loams and silts, with a base of basalt. But in others there can be areas with deep, well-draining silty soils. A defining factor is the impact of the winds blowing through the Van Duzer Corridor, a gap in the Coast Range southwest of the AVA. These winds reduce problems such as mildew and thicken grape skins, making for more robust, dark-colored wines. (The actual Van Duzer Corridor AVA is due south of McMinnville).
Pinot Noir is the signature grape throughout the Willamette Valley, and McMinnville vineyards are no different, with much smaller plantings of Chardonnay and a bit of Pinot Blanc and Syrah. As new vineyards are planted there will be more diversity. To cite one example, newcomer Violet Vines started with three acres of Pinot Noir five years ago, and now farms 26 acres with five clones of Pinot Noir, two clones of Chardonnay and small blocks of Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc and Albariño.
Over many years and tastings I’ve found that Brittan Vineyards (last reviewed here May 2nd); Hyland Estates (last reviewed here August 8th) and Maysara (last reviewed here April 13th) are well-established and consistently excellent producers with exceptional estate vineyards in the AVA. Past tasting notes and previous write-ups are all searchable here.
Moe Momtazi grows grapes for his Maysara winery according to biodynamic practices, and what I find that distinguishes these wines is the subtle layering of earthy details – brambly berries, dried herbs and flowers, forest floor, various botanicals and a whiff of compost. Along with the importance of biodynamic farming, Momtazi emphasizes the impact of those Van Duzer Corridor winds. “I think that one of the most special parts of owning vineyard property here in the McMinnville AVA,” he told me, “is the microclimate that we have the privilege of farming in. The winds of the Van Duzer Corridor help prevent disease issues, the fluctuation between day/night time temperatures during the summer helps keep acidity in the wines vibrant, and we often are protected from some of the fall rains that make their way through the Valley during harvest season, allowing us longer hang time on the vines. All of these natural components come together in the McMinnville AVA and help give us the perfect natural backbone to make age-worthy Pinot Noir.”
Robert Brittan was already well-established in Napa as the longtime winemaker at Stags’ Leap when he and Ellen Brittan decided to pull up stakes and start a new adventure. As he explained some years ago “we were looking for a site that had the potential to produce Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that were unique and compelling. I specifically wanted to be able to make multiple Pinot Noirs off the property as the result of the site itself and not through any winemaking techniques. In tasting wines that had been made in the McMinnville AVA I discovered that these were low pH wines with highly concentrated phenolics, showing great potential for aging and site-specific expression.”
In December of 2004 the Brittans purchased their 128-acre estate in the foothills of the Coast Range. They made their first vintage in 2006. The original 18 acres were planted in 2001, but only eight acres survived. Since 2004 it has been an ongoing rehabilitation project replanting, retraining, and learning the unique landscape that has become Brittan Vineyard. There are now 30 acres under vine incorporating additional blocks of Chardonnay, heritage Pinot Noir selections, and Rhône varieties.
In Brittan’s view the particular characteristics that distinguish the estate are its unique combination of the base geology, the complexity of the soils, the impact of the Van Duzer Corridor and the fact that it is in the foothills of the Coastal Range and near to the Pacific Ocean. Which may also be considered the primary characteristics of the McMinnville AVA.
“The result of these influences,” Brittan explains, “are wines that have the potential to express tension, which expands the wines – giving them length through the palate and a long, complex finish. These influences also contribute savory flavors and the impression of salinity/minerality, resulting in a more complex expression of aroma and flavor in the Pinot Noirs. Wines from McMinnville have an intensity of color and flavor which encourage extended cellaring.”
Brittan has also made the first few vintages of a neighboring winery, La Biblioteca, founded in 2018. It shares ownership and management with North Willamette Vineyards, and the estate’s Aegrina vineyard is within the McMinnville AVA. A few weeks ago the winery announced a new partnership with François Millet, the long time winemaker at Burgundy’s Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. Millet now consults to wineries around the globe, as well as working on family projects in Burgundy and Jura.
He joins managing partner/winemaker James Cahill, who is also the winemaker at North Valley Vineyards. His name should be familiar, as he has one of the more impressive Willamette Valley resumés, including important positions at Beaux Frères, Elk Cove and Soter Vineyards, where he first partnered with Tony and Michelle Soter to launch North Valley Vineyards.
Aegrina, Cahill notes, was planted starting back in 2007-08, developed under the direction of Lynn Penner-Ash and viticulturalist Joel Myers. “Lynn made the clonal selections and oversaw the development of Aegrina and also what is now the North Valley estate vineyard; adjacent to Penner-Ash and Shea.” The owner is Jay Lee, who lives in Korea and imports Oregon wines through his company Vitis. Lee acquired North Valley in 2021.
The current releases of La Biblioteca were made as noted above under the direction of Robert Brittan, and are the first wines from this property I have had the opportunity to taste. All are from the estate’s Aegrina vineyard.
La Biblioteca 2021 Estate Reserve Chardonnay – This hits what I would call the modern style of Chardonnay in Oregon – 13% abv, one quarter new oak for just 10 months, emphasis on delicate aromatics. Sappy, layered flavors of citrus flesh and rind come with a phenolic frame as it sails through and sticks the finish with a hint of butterscotch. Along the way it touches on the AVA’s characteristic minerality and perfectly balances the fruit, acid and barrel components. 300 cases; 13%; $45 (McMinnville) 92/100
La Biblioteca 2021 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir – Forward and fruit-driven, this is two thirds Pommard clone and spent a full year in one quarter new French oak. Pretty aromatics lead into a broad, soft palate which veers between silky and subdued. There are muted flavors of wild raspberries, blood orange and a hint of chocolate. 400 cases; 13.1%; $45 (McMinnville) 90/100
La Biblioteca 2021 Rare Imprint Pinot Noir – The back label notes that these are “Heirloom blocks”, though it’s not clear what that means and how it’s different from the Perfect Bind’s “Heritage blocks”. It’s a sharp, tangy, well-balanced wine with some detail and medium depth. It brings wild blackberry fruit with a peppery edge, backed with tart acidity. Hints of chocolate add nuance, though as it rolls through the finish the savory notes and barrel flavors seem to compete for attention, suggesting that more bottle age is in order to smooth it all out. 150 cases; 12.8%; $65 (McMinnville) 90/100
La Biblioteca 2021 End Papers Pinot Noir – Just out this month, the End Papers is 100% Pommard clone. All the La Biblioteca Pinots come from the estate vineyard and are stylistically consistent, but there are details that differentiate the bottlings. Here it seems the barrel aging is more prominent, adding highlights of caramel and cola that bring extra depth and texture to the light pomegranate and white raspberry fruit. 175 cases; 13.3%; $65 (McMinnville) 91/100
La Biblioteca 2021 Title Page Pinot Noir – This is also Pommard clone, here whole cluster fermented and given 30% new oak aging. In keeping with the restraint of this winery’s overall portfolio, the alcohol is below 13%, allowing for complex aromatics, floral highlights and a delicate layering of mixed citrus and berry fruits. It’s the sort of deceptively light Pinot Noir that may evolve beautifully over time if given the chance. It’s a contemplative wine that will reward your attention with unsuspected length and detail. 70 cases; 12.5%; $65 (McMinnville) 92/100
La Biblioteca 2021 Perfect Bind Pinot Noir – Sourced from “Heritage blocks” this opens with punchy flavors of blackberry, marionberry and citrus with accents of lightly peppery herbs. Aging in roughly one quarter new oak adds a streak of sandalwood. The mid-palate shows good concentration, and the finish leaves a lingering impression of cola and cedar shakes. What distinguishes this bottling comes down to focus – there’s a tight core of fruit and savory highlights that promise further development with age. Meanwhile decant it, or do as I do and pour a glass, re-cork the bottle, and try it again on the second day. You might be surprised at what a difference a day makes (shout out to Dinah Washington and Sarah Vaughan). 155 cases; 13.9%; $65 (McMinnville) 92/100
From recent tastings here are some other recommended McMinnville AVA wines.
Domaine Divio 2022 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir – Bruno Corneaux manages this old vine site, which was first planted more than a half century ago. This ‘Coury Clone’ Pinot Noir bears a connection to Willamette Valley grower Charles Coury, whose vineyard was planted in the mid-1960s. Intensely expressive and wonderfully detailed, it’s a chance to set your palate loose on a romp through Oregon wine history. Threads of brambly blackberries, black cherry pastry, Asian spices, autumn leaves, tapenade, espresso grounds, black tea, tobacco and more are woven into a marvelous tapestry of flavor. By all means give it a little breathing time or a good swirl in the glass, then sit back, sip slowly, and enjoy. This should drink well into the 2040s. 198 cases; 13.3%; $65 (McMinnville) 96/100
Élevée Winegrowers 2021 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir – From 100% Pommard clone grapes grown on volcanic soils, this expresses the clean minerality particular to this small AVA. The vineyard, planted in 1988 and now certified Biodynamic, captures the cool breezes blowing through the Van Duzer Corridor. The cranberry/cherry fruit has a lightly roasted character, and gathers strength through the mid-palate. It exits with a wash of almond-flecked chocolate. 200 cases; 13%; $70 (McMinnville) 95/100
Ricochet 2022 Pinot Blanc – Sourced from 40-year-old vines at Yamhill Valley Vineyards in the McMinnville AVA, this pushes non-intervention to the limits. No additives, no enzymes, no animal products, no filtering notes winemaker/owner Erich Berg. Apart from any doubts about ageability, I can recommend this for near-term drinking. Its purity, resonance, layering, clarity and undeniable juiciness are compelling. A big tangy mouthful of citrus fruit – notably grapefruit – is framed with touches of wet stone. 120 cases; 12.8%; $35 (McMinnville) 91/100
St. Innocent 2021 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir – This fine-textured wine is elegant and expressive. Brambly wild berries, red currants, clean earth, mixed herbs and light threads of iron, coffee and chocolate hold your interest through a lingering finish. 1071 cases; 13.5%; $60 (McMinnville) 92/100
Walter Scott 2022 Hyland Vineyard Chardonnay – Sourced from 1979 plantings at this storied vineyard, this brings out the subtle elegance of own-rooted old vines. Delicate notes of leaf and herb, citrus zest and flower, flow gracefully around the core citrus and apple fruit. With ample breathing, this fills out the texture and depth. Fermented in one third new barrels, it does not show a lot of oak influence, but rather lets the natural minerality and herbaceousness of the site shine through. 120 cases; 13%; $80 (McMinnville) 94/100
Thin-skinned. Temperamental. In need of constant care and attention.
… referring to Oregon Pinot.
You must be a winemaker!