Take a moment to closely study a few back labels on randomly chosen wines and you’ll find a seemingly miscellaneous hodge-podge of clutter. Start with all the required information: net contents (750 ml is a standard wine bottle); alcohol by volume (listed as a percentage and only accurate to one percentage point up or down); the name and address of the wine company; the appellation of origin; a sulfite declaration (“contains sulfites”); a health warning (“don’t get pregnant if you drive machinery etc.”) and still more names, code numbers and addresses if the wine is from a foreign country. And there’s often a QR code or some other scannable icon.
But wait, there’s more! Sometimes a lot more. Because you have stumbled into the ever-expanding land of… everything else.
Ingredient labeling has become a thing. Actually many things. Here are a few commonly cited “ingredients” on current wines: grapes, tartaric acid, sulfur dioxide (free and retained), indigenous yeasts, yeast nutrients, pectinolytic enzymes, malolactic bacteria, calcium carbonate, French oak… and on and on. Does any of that have even the slightest impact on your wine buying decisions?
And springing up like chanterelle mushrooms after an autumn rain are myriad global and regional certifications trumpeting Organic, Biodynamic, LIVE, Salmon Safe, Sustainable, Natural, LEED, SIP, Demeter, Vegan and still more eco-friendly credentials. Numerous publications have put together articles explaining some of the more commonly found icons. Here’s a straightforward piece that ran in Wine Enthusiast recently.
This is just a small sample of the icons you may encounter on current wine labels.
But as well-intentioned as all such efforts seem to be, I can’t help but wonder what, if anything, is the actual impact on wine sales? When you see any one of these graphics on a label, does it influence your buying decision in any way? Do you even know what it means to be Demeter certified, or LEED certified, or Salmon Safe? I sure don’t, and the best I can tell you about as friendly a term as ‘Sustainable’ is that it sure sounds good and I’m all for it.
OK, I’m exaggerating a bit here. Environmental concerns are certainly important, and the wine industry has been a global leader in pursuing earth-friendly agriculture. I’m impressed with LEED certified wineries and tasting rooms, which emphasize green construction and energy-saving materials and heating/cooling systems. Cowhorn, Sokol Blosser, Stoller Family and Torii Mor are LEED leaders in Oregon, with more in the midst of the lengthy (and expensive) certification process.
Regenerative agriculture is another trend on the rise, and here again Oregon is way out in front. The Compton Family website has a detailed and informative analysis of what practices it entails, defining it as “farming and ranching in synchrony with nature to repair, rebuild, revitalize and restore ecosystem function starting with all life in the soil and moving to all life above the soil.”
In practical application this includes using cover crops, no synthetic inputs (fertilizers, pesticides, etc.), dry farming and adaptive grazing of livestock. Much of the regenerative approach coincides with Biodynamic farming practices to create a holistic, farm-centered business and lifestyle.
Sustainable WA is a new program specifically for Washington wineries whose objectives include watershed protection, soil health, low input farming, employee and community stewardship and climate resiliency.
These are important and valuable programs, and they have my full endorsement. I just wish that there was less clutter and more clarity on all wine labels.
Delille Cellars
Some of my fondest memories visiting the nascent Woodinville winery community a quarter century ago took place at the original DeLille Cellars. It was headquartered in a farmstead, below a meadow where sheep grazed. A large meeting room hosted a monthly wine tasting group of which I was proud to be a member. A number of start-ups occupied the newly exciting Warehouse District, but DeLille was the trend-setter among those upstart, family-owned enterprises.
It’s a much bigger company today, and a lot has changed. It’s headquartered in the old Redhook Brewery, with a dedicated restaurant on site. Since its founding in 1992 the winery has won countless awards, high scores and accolades. Partner/winemaker Chris Upchurch has moved on to his own winery project, and his former assistant Chris Peterson has won deserved acclaim for his Avennia and Liminal wines.
Bordeaux-style blends remain a DeLille mainstay, but the portfolio has expanded to include more Rhône-inspired varietals and blends, and the winemaking is under the capable direction of Jason Gorski (recently promoted to VP of Winemaking), ably assisted by his team headed by Nick Bernstein and Mari Rossi. The four original owners are now in partnership with Bacchus Capital Management (Dobbes Family and Panther Creek are other Bacchus properties here in the Pacific Northwest).
Although my most recent tasting did not include long time favorite Harrison Hill, the rest of the DeLille lineup is as good as ever and now includes some outstanding values under sister label Métier. Production quantities across the entire line are up, and finished alcohol numbers have returned to 2020 or 2021 levels, but quality continues unchanged.
Métier (which began as a one-off GSM blend) has its own portfolio of lower priced value wines. Much like Pike Road (Elk Cove’s sister label) these wines expand the footprint, lower the cost and retain the quality and style of the original winery. With their affordable price points DeLille’s Métier wines were created to bring greater awareness to Washington’s Columbia Valley AVA and to reach new audiences. Métier opens the door for new opportunities and accounts while introducing DeLille to a broader range of consumers, expanding the winery’s reach and influence.
Métier 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – There’s a lovely throughline running along the white wines (and the rosé) from DeLille. It’s a textural density, backed with refreshing minerality, that supports and enlivens the fruit. Here there’s a zesty core of citrus, with lime and grapefruit in particular, and a splendidly clean and lingering finish that only lightly hints at the grape’s more savory accents. 7850 cases; 13.3%; $20 (Columbia Valley) 92/100
Métier 2022 Red Blend – The latest vintage from DeLille’s value brand is a blend of 55% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Malbec, a significant change from 2021. For a go-to, powerful and thoroughly delicious all-purpose red wine, this is unbeatable. Supple and loaded with black fruits, smooth tannins and hints of graphite, sandalwood and cedar, the complexity far outshines most wines at this price point. I must give a shout out to the Métier labels, unique and compelling designs by Seattle artist Becca Fuhrman. Everything about this wine shouts ‘joy’! 7500 cases; 13.8%; $25; (Columbia Valley) 92/100
Métier 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a preview of a wine slated for release this fall. It’s 100% varietal, providing drinkers with a punchy, no frills, clear-headed look at how the grape shines in the Columbia valley. Contributing vineyards are unspecified, but we can imagine that the usual cadre of DeLille sources are at least part of the blend. There is little or no hint of new barrels, but the back end is loaded with black currant fruit and highlights of graphite, black licorice, iron filings and savory herbs. A superb value; decant or cellar another couple of years. 17000 cases; 13.9%; $30; (Columbia Valley) 92/100
DeLille 2023 Rosé – Based on a Provençal model, the blend here is 46% Grenache, 48% Mourvèdre and 6% Cinsault. Ripe, round and fruity, this includes a few barrels from the Upchurch and DuBrul vineyards, certainly setting a high bar for quality (and seemingly adding some new barrel highlights to the finished wine). This is no wimpy rosé; in fact it’s got the weight and stuffing to serve as the main wine for most white meats, sausage and seafood entrées. Along with the rich berry, cherry and stone fruit flavors there is refreshing minerality and mouth-cleaning texture that consistently invites the next big sip. 1630 cases; 14.5%; $36 (Columbia Valley) 93/100
DeLille 2023 Roussanne – From 12% abv in 2022 to 14.5% in 2023 is a big jump, but back to 2021 numbers. As before Ciel du Cheval is the vineyard source. This is a rich, textured, mineral-drenched wine, deftly mixing Asian pear, Cosmic Crisp apple and white melon fruit with some skin flavors, sappy acids and a dash of sea salt. This is as good a Washington Roussanne as I can ever recall, all stainless fermented and aged, showcasing the grapes rather than any barrels. 525 cases; 14.5%; $38 (Red Mountain) 93/100
DeLille 2023 Chaleur Blanc – Part of DeLille’s early ascendance was its focus on Bordeaux-style blends, notably this Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon take on Bordeaux blanc. Fermented in roughly 60% new oak, it’s tightly focused, toasty and firm, with youthful freshness and the structure to age gracefully for another decade. 8300 cases; 13.6%; $40 (Columbia Valley) 94/100
DeLille 2022 Le Dessein Red – This wine goes from strength to strength, with slight tweaks on the blend from vintage to vintage. The 2021 blend is 34% Mourvèdre, 47% Grenache and 19% Syrah, sourced from top tier vineyards including Boushey, Stone Tree and Ciel du Cheval. Spicy and forward, it’s packed with juicy raspberries, marionberries, blackberries and citrusy acids. Lively and fresh, with a peppery bite from the Syrah, this exceptional wine may be enjoyed immediately and over the rest of this decade. 2500 cases; 15.2%; $45 (Columbia Valley) 94/100
DeLille 2021 Le Colosse – Calling this Yakima Valley red wine is a major understatement. Hello – this is 100% Merlot from Boushey, Red Willow, DuBrul and Harrison Hill – all great Yakima Valley vineyards. Full- bodied and detailed, this is still pulling itself together and needs some extra breathing time. I’m curious about the mix of barrels, which show some of the flavors of American oak, though that is pure speculation on my part. The lush mid-palate mixes berries, cherries and plums; tannins are polished and precise, and the wine balances the fruit against savory herbs, tobacco, black tea and barrel toast. The wine exploded to life on the second day. 820 cases; 14.5%; $65 (Yakima Valley) 93/100
DeLille 2021 Minuit Red – This is 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Red Mountain and other Yakima Valley sites. It’s a pleasure for a fan of Malbec as I am to see the grape in the starring role, yet the Cabernet wingman adds muscle and depth. All in all this is an excellent pairing, loaded with black fruits, black olives, and finished with ripe, slightly sandy tannins. Some exposure to new oak adds hints of sandalwood as the wine trails out with exceptional length and power. 1233 cases; 14.2%; $60 (Yakima Valley) 94/100
DeLille 2021 30th Vintage D2 – D2 was one of the original DeLille releases from the winery’s first 91992) vintage, and this commemorates the 30th anniversary. It’s a classic Bordeaux blend of 58% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, and seems to have been given the same exceptional care as the winery’s top wine Chaleur Estate. New barrel aging provides a bright, forward frame of toasty oak around blackberry and black cherry fruit. Along with the barrel spices are streaks of savory herbs and black olives, coffee and iron filings. This could easily be the reserve level wine at many wineries; here it represents excellent value. 15872 cases; 14.3%; $50 (Columbia Valley) 94/100
DeLille 2021 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon – Named for the quartet of Red Mountain vineyards that supply the grapes – Grand Ciel, Upchurch, Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun – this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is deep, supple and laser focused on the great Red Mountain fruit. Blackberries, black currants, black cherries, black licorice… well black is back for sure. This densely packed pure varietal Cabernet is a fine companion to the Le Colasse Merlot, pitting Yakima Valley’s finest against Red Mountain icons. Everybody is a winner here. First bottle was lightly corked; the second bottle came out in fine shape. Decant and let it breathe for optimal drinking. 2100 cases; 14.5%; $80 (Red Mountain) 95/100
DeLille 2021 30th Vintage Chaleur Estate Red – Sourced from Ciel du Cheval, Dubrul and Klipsun vineyards, along with the 2021 D2 this commemorates the first two wines released at the winery’s original 1992 vintage debut. The blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot. Smooth and seductive, it’s packed with red and black berries, cassis, chocolate, espresso grounds and barrel highlights. Cedar, sandalwood and baking spices abound, with seams of tobacco and tea running through the ripe, smooth tannins. Somehow it’s jumped from 625 cases in 2020 to 8700 in 2021 without losing a step. Kudos to the winemaking team. 8700 cases; 14.8%; $90 (Yakima Valley) 95/100
Purchase wines here.
When I was a child, my family lived in a small town near Albi. I remember my mother buying “75 Deci de Gros Rouge” from the local epicier (grocery store). This transaction entailed my mother handing over an empty wine bottle with a swivel cap (similar to the one on Groesch beer) to the grocer. He then refilled it with wine from a small barrel, capped the bottle and returned it to Mother. In lieu of labels, there was a small blackboard near the barrel that indicated the name of the vintner, the type of wine contained in the barrel, the vintage (sometimes), the date the barrel was tapped in the épicerie, and the sales price.
I can not comment on the quality of the wine as purchased. My parents must have found it acceptable and they allowed me and my brother to drink it well diluted with tap water. Purchasing wine in the U.S. these days is a much more complex process.
Whatever it was your mother was buying I’ll wager it was real wine, made by local families, maybe from a co-op, but honest as the day is long. And without the ‘protection’ of warning labels and all the other goop now adorning wine labels, somehow your family enjoyed the wine and lived to tell the tale. In my next life I’d like to grow up in a small town near Albi!
Thank you for your kind response.
The time was 1940 to 1942. The Midi was part of Vichy France run by Marechal Petain. Any and every thing sellable, including food and wine, was local and rationed. Coops were an unknown concept.
That world is long gone.
I also think that people were enjoying good drinkable wines, and living with rotgut, for millennia before warning labels were conceived, much less their becoming commercial norms.