This past week my Substack colleague, long time wine writer Dan Berger wrote an interesting piece on the value of aging wines.
I have no quibbles with what he had to say, and I am lucky enough to have a deep and varied wine cellar that allows me to pull out those older bottles from time to time. In fact, Dan’s piece inspired me to dig around and do just that this past week as you’ll see later in this story.
There are many good reasons to enjoy wines that have at least five, maybe ten years of bottle age. Of course I’m talking about quality wines that have the balance, precision and depth to reward the extra time prior to drinking. As good as wines can be right upon release, they have just made the transit from vineyard to fermenter to aging vessel(s) to bottle to warehouse to… wherever. They’re exhausted!
Those extra years allow the components to knit together, smooth rough edges, and build aromatics. They move the fruit away from just-picked toward pastry flavors, without losing all freshness. I don’t usually keep wines much past 12 – 15 years, because at that point they may start showing signs of oxidation and lose the connection to place and grape that made them special to begin with. As the saying goes, old red wines, from anywhere, taste like old red wines.
When you taste wines across a range of ages you can hone in on what is, for your palate, optimum drinking windows for each type of wine you enjoy. And you may find that your appreciation of varieties and vineyards and terroirs expands and grows more inclusive of scents and flavors not found in young wines.
Unfortunately, it is less and less likely that today’s wine drinkers will have that opportunity. As young adults, Boomers like me had many opportunities to taste older wines at affordable prices. It wasn’t unusual for wine shops, such as the legendary Esquin and McCarthy & Schiering in Seattle, to open older wines at tastings. Restaurants had cellars full of back vintages that had been purchased at remarkably low prices – the greatest wines from Bordeaux, Napa and even Burgundy could be found without ramping up the dinner bill by a factor of ten.
These days restaurants are cutting way back on cellaring wines, and what they may have is stunningly expensive. If you have Boomer parents who kept a lot of wines, I will bet that the vast majority are over the hill (the wines, not the parents!), perhaps undrinkable, because of poor storage and because folks of my generation suffer from the “what is the perfect time to drink this special bottle?” syndrome. Whatever that perfect time may have been, it’s probably long past.
The well-documented challenges facing the entire wine industry today also make it less and less likely that there will continue to be much interest among newer consumers in exploring old wines, even if they should be available. What is old anyway? How old is too old? There are no specific answers; as I said, you have to try a lot of wines at various ages to find what drinking windows are best for you. For anyone who has had little or no experience tasting really old wines, they are likely to be challenging at best, unpleasant at worst. If all you have ever tasted are young wines, it won’t be easy to enjoy the very different pleasures that fully mature wines can (sometimes) deliver.
Dan’s article listed a great many wines and wine regions where wines can and do age well, but for reasons unknown he left out the wines of the Pacific Northwest. Perhaps part of the reason is that many top producers in both Washington and Oregon went through a rather long period when they were chasing high Parker scores by emulating hot climate California wines. Those 15%-and-higher Willamette Valley Pinots and Walla Walla Cabernets did not, by and large, last even a decade. They were unbalanced from the start. Unbalanced young wines do not magically turn into balanced old wines. They simply self-destruct.
Styles have changed, viticulture and winemaking practices are far superior to what they were a couple of decades ago. One reason all my reviews include abv (alcohol by volume) percentages is because that number is a good indicator of a wine’s style and ageability. The lower, the better, at least up to a point. Over the past decade or longer average abv’s have been steadily trending down.
Washington’s Cabernets, Merlots, Bordeaux blends and Syrahs can and do age beautifully, though not all in the same timeline. Oregon’s Pinot Noirs do as well, and recently I’ve enjoyed Pinot Gris that improves quite noticeably after a half decade in bottle.
It’s not only red wines but also dry white wines that can reward cellaring. If they are sealed with a screwcap, the timeline for aging expands dramatically.
Here’s a short list of the wines I’ve enjoyed this past week. Note that none of them are ancient – not even close. But even a half decade of extra bottle age can amp up aromas, broaden the palate and add enormous pleasure to the experience.
Elk Cove 2018 Estate Pinot Gris. Sealed with a screwcap, this is wonderfully fresh, loaded with lime and pear fruit and rich, juicy acids. Full-bodied with a long, focused finish.
Soléna 2018 Pinot Gris. This too was finished with a screwcap. It’s at a mid-point in development, showing good minerality, pear skin, apple and jicama flavors. A hint of caramel and bacon fat! trailing the finish suggests it may have spent some time in barrel.
King Estate 2018 Steiner Block Pinot Gris. The original 1992 estate planting is named to honor Rudolf Steiner, the scientist who developed the biodynamic approach to agriculture. This bottle was cork sealed and showed way more age than the previous two from the same vintage. In fact I’d call it just past optimal drinking window, with early hints of oxidative flavors. Good texture and length. Drink up.
Elizabeth Chambers 2011 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir. Made by the late Elizabeth Chambers, the back label notes that “wines from Freedom Hill are long-lived, and the 1994 vintage was still drinking well just a couple of years ago”. At 13 years of age this 2011 proves the point; drinking very well, spicy, annotated with cinnamon and savory herbs.
Soléna 2014 Domaine Danielle Laurent ‘Legacy’ Pinot Noir. This was a special, commemorative barrel select reserve bottling. Showing lovely secondary pastry fruits in the nose and on the palate, with early signs of bricking at the rim. For me this was at or near peak drinking.
Moffett 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir. Made by the talented Drew Voit, this is a powerful wine, aged in 3/4 new oak barrels. Those toasty highlights are prominent and still well integrated, a testament to both winemaking and a great vintage. Powerful, earthy, mineral, bold black fruits and forest floor. A complete wine at a fine drinking age.
Scott Paul 2015 Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir. This may have been the last vintage of the Scott Paul wines. Finished with a screwcap, just 13% abv, it was beautiful both in color and condition. Elegant, classy, trend-setting Pinot Noir that would be perfectly in step with today’s trends.
Lavinea 2017 Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir. The youngest of the “old” Pinots I tasted, this was also the best. Not that it couldn’t continue to age and dazzle the palate, but the color, perfume, charm, elegance, balance, detail and precision made this a standout, not only for the week, but for the year so far. In terms of my palate and preferences it solidifies my impression that good Oregon Pinot Noir is most likely to be in very fine condition between five and 15 years post-vintage.Subscribe
Recommended Current Releases
Compton Family
Compton 2019 Sparkling Brut – Made in the true Champagne method, this is three quarters Pinot Noir from the oldest vines in the vineyard; the rest Chardonnay. It’s a forward, fruity wine with appealing minerality. It’s finished dry but not tongue-scrapingly astringent, and has lively flavors of apple, white peach and melon. 145 cases; 12.5%; $42 (Willamette Valley) 90/100
Compton 2023 Garden Series Pinot Gris – This catches the hint of blush that characterizes this grape. It’s in a fine drinking window, with citrus and pear and green table grape flavors. Almost fleshy, nicely balanced and textural, it is especially attractive at this price. 2500 cases; 13%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Compton 2022 Pinot Blanc – From the estate vineyard, planted in 1997, this is a flat out lovely bottle. Listed at just 12.5% finished alcohol, it’s light, elegant, inviting and complex. A mix of apple, Asian pear and melon fruit fills the mid-palate, set against clean acids and a lightly savory frame. A perfect wine to chill down and sip on a summer picnic. 325 cases; 12.5%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Compton 2023 Garden Series Rosé of Pinot Noir – A pretty pale copper hue, this is aromatically piercing, tart and refreshing. Citrus fruits are here in abundance – a lush mix of lemon, lime, grapefruit and a touch of pineapple. With aeration it broadens out, touching on red berry fruits. An elegant style but classic for rosés from Pinot Noir. 165 cases; 12.8%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Compton 2022 Garden Series Pinot Noir – I last tasted this cuvée a few vintages ago, and it never fails to please. This 2022 – the current release – is aromatic and savory, light on its feet but powerfully flavorful. Peppery red berries, a hint of watermelon, firm tannins and decent length make this a perfect every day Pinot Noir Many of the Pinots from the southern Willamette Valley are by any standard underpriced for the quality, and this proves the point. 1232 cases; 13%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 90/100
Compton Family 2018 Llewellyn Cuvée Pinot Noir – Released about a year ago this is entering its drinking maturity. The color is a sunset shade, the tannins have been softened and the fruit is into a secondary, pleasantly fading phase. As the wine ages the herbal, earthy flavors come out, adding texture and depth, along with a certain bitterness. For me it’s a drink now wine, while it’s holding its balance and showing enough of the foundational fruit. 93 cases; 13.8%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Soléna
Note that many of these are 1+% lighter abv than the winery’s ‘21s. More finesse!
Soléna 2022 Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot Noir – Unusually light at just 12.7% abv, this puts the emphasis on elegance, balance and texture. Light strawberry fruit, a touch of rhubarb, peppery herbs and just-shaved lemon rind flavors combine in a graceful palate. There is nothing missing here, and the pleasant autumn compensated for the spring freeze, early summer rains and mid-summer heat. This was a vintage that required winemakers to make ongoing adjustments more than usual, and the team at Soléna handled it quite well. One quarter of the wine was aged in new oak. The supple tannins finish with a touch of breakfast tea. 500 cases; 12.7%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100
Soléna 2022 Gregory Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir – This biodynamic vineyard is often featured in Bergström’s portfolio, but is I believe a first in Soléna’s lineup. Marionberry fruit flavors hang on to their acidic tartness, while the tannins bring grip and depth to the finish. Accents of organic earth and wild herbs and flowers are subtle but welcome. As a book end to the Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot from the same AVA and vintage, it makes a perfect contrast. 150 cases; 12.7%; $60 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100
Soléna 2022 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir – In this vintage the Zena Crown is fuller, riper and overall a bit richer than many of its cohorts, with plummy red and blue fruits with details of rose hip tea, clove and orange peel. The tannins are firm and reflect the AVA’s exposure to the Van Duzer Corridor winds. Full in the mouth, robust and muscular through the finish, this borders on the edge of ‘hearty’ – in a good way. 150 cases; 14.2%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills) 93/100
Soléna 2022 Prince Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – First planted 40 years ago by the late Dick Erath, Prince Hill is now owned and managed by California’s Silver Oak. A new Prince Hill brand will be launched this fall. Here the flavors of this light vintage run to pomegranate, rhubarb, white raspberries, with a dash of white pepper and plenty of tart acid backing. Exposure to new oak was limited, adding a kiss of toast while keeping the wine elegant and all the flavors proportionate. The tannins also touch lightly; everything is beautifully balanced here. Across this vintage of Soléna Pinots I find wines with the appeal and elegance of fine cru Burgundy from a lighter year. 150 cases; 12.9%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Soléna 2022 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir – First planted in 1971, this is one of the oldest Oregon vineyards still bearing quality fruit. How much of this wine comes from those old vines is unknown. It’s got some of the texture and subtle detail that old vines contribute for sure; in any event it’s a complete, balanced, exceptional expression of Willamette Valley/McMinnville AVA Pinot Noir. Light strawberry, raspberry and hints of cherry fruit combine, backed with hints of sandalwood and spice. A lovely bottle, it will reward cellaring and may surprise you with its lushness a decade or so from now. 300 cases; 13.5%; $65 (McMinnville) 94/100
Soléna 2022 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir – Were I to name my top five vineyards in the Willamette Valley Shea would surely be on that list. On a recent visit I was again struck by the fact that it isn’t a particularly spectacular site; in fact it looks rather ordinary. For that matter, so does Champoux in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills. But the magic is in the grapes these vineyards produce. And I’d be willing to bet that Shea vineyard designates across a great number of vintages and widely varied producers collect more high scores than any vineyard in Oregon. At Soléna this wine gets one quarter new oak, putting a toasty frame around tart red berry fruits. The tannins are full and firm, the flavors touch on both red and black fruits, and the sandalwood and tobacco highlights add dimension and length. Light hints of bitter herbs slip across the palate as the wine winds down along a lingering finish. 200 cases; 13.9%; $60 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100
The Walls
This Walla Walla winery has just introduced an expansive menu (including pizza) to accompany wine tastings. Here are some great options among the current releases.
The Walls 2022 French Creek Vineyard Lip Stinger White – This white Rhône-influenced blend is 45% Grenache Blanc, 32% Viognier, 12% Marsanne, 8% Roussanne and just 3% Picpoul (the genuine lip stinger grape). Deliciously crisp, lightly peppery, firmly anchored in citrus zest and wet stone minerality, this shows hints of barrel aging that helps to round it out and plump it up just a bit. I suggest giving it a bit of a chill to keep it as crisp and fresh as possible. 784 cases; 14%; $32 (Yakima Valley) 92/100
The Walls 2021 Stanley Groovy Red – A blend of eight grapes from the Red Heaven vineyard, this is weighted heavily toward Portuguese varieties, along with Cabernet, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Fermented in concrete and stainless steel, then aged in 20% new French oak, it’s a chewy, earthy, savory wine that seems right for thin sliced tri-tip quickly grilled. Or maybe just a juicy burger. 1148 cases; 14%; $35 (Red Mountain) 91/100
The Walls 2021 The Ramparts Red – This is principally Grenache, blended with 13%Mourvèdre and 4%Counoise. For a Red Mountain wine it’s unusually spicy, energetic and bright. Blue and black fruits mix with flavors of coffee and tar; there’s a slightly minty aftertaste. 572 cases; 14.5%; $42 (Red Mountain) 91/100
The Walls 2021 Stoney Vine Vineyard Wonderful Nightmare Tempranillo – Here’s a Walla Walla Tempranillo that really distinguishes itself and differentiates its flavors from the all-too-common generic red category. One quarter of the blend is Mourvèdre from Les Collines, which may account for its unique profile. It’s spicy, hinting at the renowned Rocks District funk, showing accents of umami and wet underbrush and chamomile tea. There is a penetrating intensity that carries on through the palate, with wild red berries, suggestions of grilled meat and a dash of soy sauce. Good length and persistence. 431 cases; 13.5%; $48 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100
The Walls 2021 Mahana Red – Labeled simply red but three quarters Syrah (the rest is Grenache), this brings the Rocks District funk front and center, with umami, cured meats, tea, tobacco and black olive tapenade. Under all that is ripe black cherry fruit, along with touches of baker’s chocolate, espresso and licorice. It’s a big, complex, rather showy wine, which should please anyone who loves Rocks District Syrah. 375 cases; 14.9%; $65 (Walla Walla Valley/Rocks District) 94/100
The Walls 2021 Bellamy Cabernet Sauvignon – This was sourced from a pair of Rocks District vineyards, and includes 25% Merlot, smoothing it out across a silky, seamless, sexy palate. Rich and luxurious, the black cherry and cassis fruit is threaded with seams of licorice and caramel. The wine lingers through a finish with accent notes of tobacco, chicory and burnt sugar. Just as tasty, maybe even smoother, when revisited on the second and even the third day. 283 cases; 14%; $80 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100
The Single Vineyard Cabernet Series Wines
This new series debuts with three single vineyard selections from the 2021 vintage.
The Walls 2021 French Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Fresh blackberry flavors give this a juicy start, leading into a broad palate washed with savory/earthy highlights. The tannins are firm and drying, layered with flavors of graphite and coffee grounds. Barrel aging in three quarters new oak adds touches of tobacco and spice as the wine trails out. It’s packed solid and should be aggressively decanted – at least an hour, maybe two – before drinking. 263 cases; 15%; $120 (Yakima Valley) 94/100
The Walls 2021 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Tight and toasty, this is firmly packed with layers of black cherry and cassis accented with dark chocolate, coffee grounds, cedar shakes and anise. The tannins are full-bodied and dominating and this young wine needs aggressive decanting. There’s a bourbon barrel flavor that swells up as the wine opens. If your palate leans toward high end Napa wines, but you want that underlying burst of Washington acidity, this is your bottle. I’m guessing that its best drinking window begins in about five years. 157 cases; 15%; $120 (Horse Heaven Hills) 95/100
The Walls 2021 Rockgarden Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – The handful of cases made of this wine are already sold out except in the three-bottle case featuring one of each of the single vineyard wines. This is a lovely iteration of the Rocks District style – big, chewy, laced with umami and soy, yet somewhat restrained, even elegant. Blueberry, blackberry and cassis fruit underlies the ripe, flavorful tannins. Layers of tobacco, graphite, cedar, charcuterie and the whole panoply of Rocks District fruit are on display. One can only hope there will be much more of this wine available in future vintages. 42 cases; 15.1%; $120 (Walla Walla Valley/Rocks District) 96/100
Purchase these wines here.
Events & Tastings Coming Up
The Shindig at Yellowhawk Resort
August 23 -24 – Sip from more than 25 wineries on the beautiful Yellowhawk grounds, enjoy light bites, and groove to live music. The Magnum Tent will feature 14 special pours and has limited tickets. On Saturday the Grand Gallop event is a multi-course dinner and auction to support local youth agriculture, and the wine and culinary communities. Bid on exclusive packages and dance the night away with post-dinner entertainment.
